ABS problem has shown itself and an engine sound

[AMarx]

Every so often, I start up the car and the ABS light comes on. On the times that it stays on, I will sometimes feel a kick from the engine area and the light will go off.

Other times it comes on and goes off with the brake light, as normal.

Any ideas out there?

The only other issue is that when I speed up very quickly, it sounds like I have a turbo on the car. I haven't put one on - I've never had one on a car. (Quite embarrassing ...) What would it look like if I saw one? I've driven in cars with turbos, but not checked under the hoods.

The car was crashed by the previous owner, causing the engine to be rebuilt - and the owner liked speed, so it is possible it has one. It certainly has alot of pickup when I need it. I just haven't noticed anything that really says "turbo" on it when I look at the engine. What else could cause the sound?

Thanks for any help ...

[Quincy Cummings]

I think it is common to feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal on start up as the ABS system checks itself or pressurize, so that may not be a problem.

Its not common to find a front wheel drive V6 GM car with a turbo, but someone cold put one in if they had a lot of time and cash. If that was the case, I am sure the previous owner would have told you even if as a selling point. I guess I would look for a lot of extra "plumbing" under the hood and maybe check to see of the exhaust manifold appears to have been replaced or fabricated.

3800 V6 engines have a fair amount ot torque, but it should feel smooth, not the acceleration rush normally associated with turbocharged cars.

The noise could be from the wind against a misplaced or "shifted" body panel. Air leaks are common on cars that have sustained front end or side damage.

I would suggest you take an afternoon or weekend to get to know your car so you can spot items that may be option or should not be there in the first place.

[Guest wally888]

Give the car the brake tests at site below-Brakes/Troublesootings/tests.

Post results here(in this thread) and get help!

[AMarx]

Checked the breaks. No problems there. The fluid is darker than new, but not really that dirty. I think they may not have completely flushed the lines when they replaced the fluid. I plan to take it into the shop, to see what they can tell me when they hook it up to the computer.

[AMarx]

"I think it is common to feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal on start up as the ABS system checks itself or pressurize, so that may not be a problem."

- Yes, I agree. I just meant that the trouble light goes out after I hear a knock, that I feel through the brake pedal.

"3800 V6 engines have a fair amount ot torque, but it should feel smooth, not the acceleration rush normally associated with turbocharged cars."

If I'm going slowly, I don't feel the acceleration. It's when I pass people that I sink into the seat. Only had one chance this weekend to do a test run for 0-60. Going up a hill, at 45 degrees, it took 9 secs. Not really ideal conditions for testing. I'm sure it'd do better on a flat surface.

I have noticed that it seems to lose power on very sharp corners or turning from a stop. Going straight, it does great, power is quick and sharp - the engine moves faster than the wheels.

"The noise could be from the wind against a misplaced or "shifted" body panel. Air leaks are common on cars that have sustained front end or side damage."

Checked this weekend. The noise is distinctly tied to the speed of the engine, not the wind.

Ex has my daughter this weekend, so I'll report more after this weekend.

[Guest wally888]

**The kick!** The EBCM (Elec. Brake Control Module) cycles (checks) the Anto-lock system each time the engine is started. It causes the system to cycle . The Servos in the Valve Block and the Main Valve are cycled (cycling of Main Valve is **audible**, Test #7),the circuits of wheel sensors are checked and Hydraulic pressure is checked. Only then will the yellow, anti-lock light extinguish.

Not knowing the results of your giving your car the tests?, I would suggest giving the system tests #1, 5 and 6 again and compare w/ averages.

In almost all cases problems start w/ a bad Accumulator (or bad, interrmittant relay problem). (Many times mis-diagnosed by "shops", resulting in big bucks!)

Instructions for retrieving codes from the ALDL are at site below, easy. Codes set (current and History are there). Clear all codes after recording them and note if they are current or history.

I am not trying to discourage you from having the brakes professionally checked, just make sure you find a professional! Not many are familar w/ the Teves or the onboard diagnostics.

[Guest wally888]

Noise possibilities?

Rubber doughnut, there are 2 holding exhaust pipe up, just behind CAT.

A broken one can cause pipe to touch frame, noise varies and with speed and which gear tranny is in.

High pitched noise (whine) is sometimes caused by fluid rushing through a small orifice. Clogged tranny filter can sometimes be heard from inside car. Same if brake hydraulic fluid, if high pressure is escaping through an internal leak.

Serpentine Belt Tensioner.

[padgett]

Failing bearing in alternator can produce a whine that varies with engine speed. Can usually feel in housing and will often go away if you pull the connector.