NEED INFO ABOUT TORQUE CONVERTER SWITCH 66 CUTLASS

[dadphelps]

I HAVE A 66 CUTLASS WITH A SWITCH PITCH, OR WHATEVER IT IS CALLED,CONVERTER. IT WORKS, BUT NOT PROPERLY. WHEN YOU PULL OUT AT AN EASY PACE, IT STARTS WITH THE CONVERTER IN "LOW", SOMETHING SHIFTS, THEN THE OTHER SHIFTS, IT SOUNDS LIKE A 3 SPEED TRANS, BUT IT IS THE ORIGINAL JETAWAY 2 SPEED. IF YOU GIVE IT A GOOD BIT OF THROTTLE WHEN THE TRANS IN IN FIRST GEAR, AND THE CONVERTER IS IN "LOW" IT IMMEDIATELY PUTS THE CONVERTER IN "HIGH", AND IT NO LONGER SEEMS LIKE A 3 SPEED TRANSMISSION, IT THEN ACTS LIKE A 2 SPEED TRANSMISSION. THIS SEEMS LIKE THE SWITCH FOR THE CONVERTER WORKS BACKWARDS!! WHAT IS MY PROBLEM? I HAVE A 1966 OLDSMOBILE CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL, BUT I CANT FIND ANYTHING ON THE TROBLESHOTING OF THE SWITCH PITCH CONVERTER.

WOULD ANYONE BE ABLE TO HELP ME?

dadphelps@yahoo.com MIKE PHELPS 740-533-0240

[rocketraider]

Mike, look on page 6C-5 of the 1966 CSM, under "Engine Tune-up". Figure 6C-6 gives the adjustment procedures for the switch-pitch/downshift switch. Apparently the slow idle, carb rod length and switch adjustment have to be done in sequence to get the desired results.

I've never driven a Jetaway/switch-pitch car so I don't know how they behave, but I'd say it's doing what it's supposed to since you can feel the converter changing angles.

It should be in high angle at idle and then switch to low angle at about 40 degrees throttle opening, if I'm reading the 65-6-7 manuals right. Make sure the stator switch and downshift wires aren't crossed at the switch, but I think the plug will only allow them to be connected one way. The switch itself may be worn internally.

A friend just bought a 66 Starfire with a switch pitch 400, The switch is worn enough to wobble and needs replaced, so I guess I'll get my turn in the barrel soon enough.

[dadphelps]

Thanks Glen!!! I see it, and I'll check it out, the adjustment looks simple enough. I dont see the switches listed on ebay, are they available?

[Mikel]

Bruce Roe ( bcroe@juno.com ) makes an aftermarket controller for switch pitch torque converters about which I've heard VERY good things. Do a google search on "Bruce Roe switch pitch" and you will find lots of info. Or you can email him. I have a 66 Toronado with a S/P converter and I plan on getting Bruce's controller as soon as I pay off my credit cards.

Good luck.

Mikel

[rocketraider]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">as soon as I pay off my credit cards.</div></div>

That is not likely to happen for anyone who owns an old car, especially an old Toronado! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Ol' T. Rex has sure been deep in my bank accounts the whole 17 years I've owned him... sometimes I think it would have been cheaper to have a kid!

Thanks for the info on the Bruce Roe controller!

Mike, I haven't seen an NOS switch in many years. Junkyard ones are hit or miss, and the Toro switch is different from 88/98/Cutlass. Just for grins, in case you ever find one NOS- Grp 4.057, p/n 392983, switch, transmission throttle control, 66-67 Toro THM except HD or Trailer Towing. HD/Trailer Towing p/n is 395081.

For all other carlines: p/n 1993355, 65-67 V8 AT except Toro or Trailer Towing.

The difference in the trailer towing switch is the switch angle at which the stator angle changes.

[dadphelps]

THANKS FOR THE INFO GUYS, I'VE SENT BRUCE AN EMAIL, I'LL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT TURNS OUT.

I HAVE A 65 88 THAT HAS A 400 TURBO, SWITCH PITCH, WHICH IS A PARTS CAR. IT APPEARS THE SWITCH WOULD WORK ON THE CUTLASS.

CAN'T A MANUAL SWITCH BE RIGGED TO CONTROL THE CONVERTER?

NOT ONLY AM I HAVING TROUBLE WITH THE SWITCH, IT MAY BE MY FAULT, IN PART. THE ORIGINAL QJET WAS GONE. I PUT A NEW HOLLEY (BAD IDEA) ON THE CAR, NOT CONSIDERING THE WHOLE PICTURE. HAVING AN ELECTRIC CHOKE IS GREAT, BUT, THIS THROWS OFF THE GEOMETERY OF THE WHOLE SET-UP. I TRIED ADJUSTING ALL THINGS THE OTHER DAY, BUT DIDN'T ACCOMPLISH MUCH. THE SWITCH SEEMS TO SEND AN ERRATIC SIGNAL, NOW WORSE THAN EVER!!! IS IT POSSIBLE THAT NOT MOVING AS IT SHOULD SOMEHOW HURT THE SWITCH? IT HAS STOPS, IT SHOULDEN'T HYPER EXTEND.

ANYONE HAVE A CARB????

THANKS, MIKE

[Mikel]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">as soon as I pay off my credit cards.</div></div>

That is not likely to happen for anyone who owns an old car, especially an old Toronado! Ol' T. Rex has sure been deep in my bank accounts the whole 17 years I've owned him... sometimes I think it would have been cheaper to have a kid!

</div></div>

If you think a Toronado is bad enough.... I also have a 1969 Jeep M715 (Military 5/4 ton Pick-up). Jeep = Just Empty Every Pocket

If you are looking for a cheaper way to spend your time, I recommend drugs. Much cheaper than Oldsmobiles or Jeeps

[dadphelps]

Bruce Roe called me and explained all about his switch to control the switch pitch converter. He uses a timer activated by the brake light switch. You hook into the neutral side of the switch, as on a brake controller for trailer brakes. When the timer is activated, you have all the time the brake lights are on ( sitting at a traffic light, or getting in gear & taking off), then 14 seconds after you release the brake of high stall, enough to shift trans into high gear, then the timer goes off, the converter goes into low stall. (That sounds like an interior light timer to me). But he also uses a vacum monitoring switch. As you drive, if the vacum goes down very low, as when accelerating or going up hill, the timer is activated, and another 14 seconds of high stall is initated. There is no provision for passing gear kick down, he recommends a 400 turbo kickdown which GM uses, that mounts under the dash and works with the accelerator pedal. Although with high stall initated, passin gear might be overkill for the situation.

I now use my brake light switch on my vehicles equipped with a lock-up converter, to "unlock" the converter when it pulls down too far to suit me.

Bruces approach seems pretty simple, and effective. I know he spent a lot of time figuring this out. and I applaud his inventive skills.

He gets $155.00, plus shipping for his "box".

He is a very knowledgeable about the 400 turbo trans also, and is easy to talk to, and seems like a great guy, willing to help any way he can, even if you dont buy a box.

I am still working on the problem. I have contacted the "carb doctor" about a carb for this car, so I can get rid of the Holley, and my geometery problem I have with my linkage. My original switch may be useable yet.

I am now armed with much, much more knowledge about what is going on with my car. THANKS to all who have helped, it is great to have people around who will "do for others". If not for this forum, I would still be lost, saying "I have got to fix this someday". Now, I will get this fixed. It has been eating at me for 7 years, but an end is now in sight!!

I appreciate it,

Mike

[Guest John Chapman]

Mike,

I've got a '65 Skylark with the ST300 (Buick version of the JetAway). Mine has two switches. There is an idle position switch on the throttle linkage from the firewall which shifts to high stall when the trottle is closed. The other switch is attached to the carb linkage and controls the converter during open throttle operation. The reason I bring this up is that my idle postion switch was missing when I got the car. Took a while to find one. Took longer to find one that worked. I didn't even know it was gone until I'd studied the manuals for a while.

Cheers,

JMC