removal of brake drums--36 model 41

[rlcokc]

Help!! Can't get rear drums off. Is there a key which inserts in drum and axle to keep drum from slipping or is there another secret to getting drum off? any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Rod

[Guest brh]

Had the same problem on a 34 Olds I use to own. Don't know if this is the right way but we rented a big wheel puller and it yanked the drum off.

[Charles2]

I am not that familiar with the 36's but if you had to remove a nut from the end of the axle then you'll need a wheel puller. If the brake drum appears to be held on with the wheel studs then you'll probably have to back off the brake shoe adjustment to gain clearance between the shoes and drum. After a lot of miles, the shoes wear a "trench" in the drum with a lip that hangs up on the shoes. You need to get the shoes diameter smaller than that of the lip before the drum will come off.

I have a Motors Manual that covers the 36's in my shop. I'll be going down there this evening. I'll look up the drum removal procedure for you. If it is anything really radical I'll get back to you.

[rlcokc]

Charles

No nut on end of axle and the drum is closed--no hole in center. Appears to me the no key in between drum and axle but don't know. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

Rod

[Charles2]

I just checked my Motors Manual. There was no clear diagram of the '36 brakes. I am assuming the problem drums are on the rear. If I read correctly, the brakes you have are Bendix using an eccentric adjuster. Were the brakes working before you tried taking the drums off? Is there any motion between the drum and the backing plate? And, I have to ask this, have you released the emergency brake? Has the car been in regular use? I know that on my '40, the brake cylinders were frozen. It really caused some difficulty getting the drums off. On one side, I unbolted the wheel cylinder to gain a bit of working room. I would start by locating the brake adjuster and backing the shoes off as far as possible. See if this loosens the drum at all. Try tapping the drum (gently) to see if that helps. Again, I don't know for sure but I think you have the same setup as on the later pre-war hydraulic brakes. By this I mean that the rear brake drums are held in place by 2-3 small bolts into the axle flange and are REALLY held in place by the wheel bolts. If there is no big nut on the end of the axle with the axle protruding through the brake drum then I'm pretty sure you have the typical Buick rear drums. I suspect your rear drums are just stuck and you will have to back off the adjustment first then work at getting them loose enough to come off. Can you take a photo and e-mail it to me? That would give me a better idea of what you have. Good luck.

[Patrick W. Brooks]

Good Morning: I have had this problem many times, especially with cars which have set for many years. The problem is that the brake shoes have relaxed and/or rusted against the drum. The retract springs may have weakened or dirt and material from setting in water have breached the very small clearance between the shoe and drum. For whatever reason the shoes are dragging and hanging-up against the inside of the drum. This can be a very difficult task and you do develop a knack at getting them loose with practice. It will be much easier the second time. I take a mechanics hammer (this is the large hammer with no nail claw) and bang around the outside of the drum while squirting all the WD40 I can inside. At some point you will be able to wedge a large screw driver beween the drum and backplate. (keep the WD40 coming) I then wedge a large pry bar in and keep working around the drum until it comes off. You will feel it wanting to spring back and this is because the shoes are pulling against the various springs which hold them in place. At some point it will break loose and you will see more clearly the problem. Do not worry about damage to the break shoes as you must simply get the thing apart. Only about 25% of the time will any damage occur and be sure to salvage all the parts. I place them in separate boxes marked right or left ect. Be sure to wear heavy gloves when doing this for obvious reasons. On one occassion I had the drum rusted firmly against the end of the axel. This is where the five wheel bolts go to fix the wheel/tire to the axel. Banging it will the hammer will break the rust if this has happened. This is most unlikely and you must simple keep at it to work it loose. Working it back and forth as it loosens is all you can do. If this is a rear drum you must take the three small bolts out which hold the drum to the rear axel half. These face you with the wheel off and are between the bolt holes for the bolts which hold on the wheel. Let me know your success. Patrick W. Brooks, Brooker50158@hotmail.com

[Patrick W. Brooks]

Rod: After sending my last email I thought what is happening could have been better described by saying that it is as though someone jammed on the emergency brake (if you are removing the rear drums) and now the cable and system is so rusted and the shoes and pads so fixed to the drums that they will not release. You must use considerable force to break them loose and do not spare the muscle, WD 40 and hammer. Patrick W. Brooks

[Charles2]

Patrick Brooks gave you good advice. My only reservations are that you should proceed carefully. Use only the force you need to use. First, back off the brake adjustment. Then try to get the brake drums to rotate if they don't already. This will break loose any rust bond that might be holding the shoes and drum together. Put the wheels on and try to rock the car in high gear as a start. If the motor runs then try putting power to the rear wheels; alternate between low and reverse. Then try the WD-40, hammer and prybar. But, go as gently as you can because you don't want to bend the drums or backing plates; they are pretty hard to replace.

[Mrbuick714]

Try P B Blaster.

[rlcokc]

Guys

appreciate the advice. These are rear brakes and emergency is off. Had 41 ply and nearly ruined backing plates with same problem.(they appear to thinner and easier to damage) The drums turn without a great deal of effort(not turn freely). I've been hestitant to use any force without input from others. Vehicle did not run when purchased altho it rolled without problem. I'll get out my hammer and lubricant and slowly tackle this problem. I will post photo this weekend and will let everyone know how I progress.

[Patrick W. Brooks]

If the drums turn you need not use the hammer on the drums much as it is used to brake the rust, or whatever, lock between the shoe and drum. You need to just pry them off. First, you will have to get the drums over the circular end of the axel which centers the drums. Use a steel brush and WD 40 and rock them back and forth. Then it is a matter of rocking them off the shoes. Be sure the three bolts are removed and one of the three bolts is the guide which is used to hang the rim of the wheel when changing tires. I believe they are 7/16 wrench size. Good Luck. Patrick W. Brooks

[rlcokc]

Thanks for all the help. I was just a little too timid in attacking the drum. Took a big screwdriver and pried the drum off a little at a time. Took about 15-20 minutes slowly moving around the drum. Came off without too much pressure and didn't damage the backing plate. Didn't use hammer except to help screwdriver wedge between drum and backing plate. Thanks again and I'm sure I'll be asking for additonal help.

Rod

[old-tank]

Glad you finally got it off. One other suggestion that I have used on my 55's brakes is to grind/drill the head if the pins (nails?) on the back side of the backing plate in addition to removing the wheel cylinders.

Willie