mcvalencia Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 Is there a way to patch this that doesn't involve taking the body off the frame Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 (edited) You can use brake line from a 25' roll cut to the approximate length and feed it through the proper route. Form the bends in place, cut to size, and slide it in either direction to double flare each end. Then clamp it in the original locations. It takes some monkeying around but I have done it quite a few times. If you haven't made many double flares practice a few. Your last double flare is always the best looking one. You can make a new fuel line the same way. At the end of the fuel line just use step one with the mandrel of the double flare to make a bulge for the rubber hose. Edited July 22 by 60FlatTop (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcvalencia Posted July 22 Author Share Posted July 22 Thank you I'm trying to remove the line where it goes thru the cross member but it's tough it's got no room to turn a wrench at all I'm thinking of just by passing it with new line Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted July 22 Share Posted July 22 Well, like you mention in the beginning: Just kidding. The hardest ones I have done were '59 and early '60's Cadillacs. Those have a similarly tight arrangement. Some use two rubber hoses at the rear with the steel line passing through the crossmemeber and making a tight 90 bend. Leaving the new line loose to slide through the chassis you can assemble the flare, hose, and bracket with the line pushed to the rear for access. Then slide it forward clamping the bracket and wavy clip to the frame as an assembly with the bracket bolt. You can tweak the bends as you finish with a small tubing bender. Even a round piece of metal or a small glass jar will help make the final bend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcvalencia Posted July 23 Author Share Posted July 23 (edited) 20 hours ago, 60FlatTop said: Well, like you mention in the beginning: Just kidding. The hardest ones I have done were '59 and early '60's Cadillacs. Those have a similarly tight arrangement. Some use two rubber hoses at the rear with the steel line passing through the crossmemeber and making a tight 90 bend. Leaving the new line loose to slide through the chassis you can assemble the flare, hose, and bracket with the line pushed to the rear for access. Then slide it forward clamping the bracket and wavy clip to the frame as an assembly with the bracket bolt. You can tweak the bends as you finish with a small tubing bender. Even a round piece of metal or a small glass jar will help make the final bend. Thanks that's what I ended up doing it worked perfectly now do you know if any newer type master cylinders with the plastic reservoir are compatible with this where it'll bolt directly to my power booster also my car is a 72 riviera Edited July 23 by mcvalencia (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 23 Share Posted July 23 3 hours ago, mcvalencia said: ...now do you know if any newer type master cylinders with the plastic reservoir are compatible with this where it'll bolt directly to my power booster also my car is a 72 riviera Why? Those plastic reservoirs are not an improvement - at least from a performance perspective. The bores are aluminum and not rebuildable. Removing the lid to check the fluid level isn't really that difficult... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcvalencia Posted July 24 Author Share Posted July 24 Well I just bled the brakes and I'm not sure if I'm right but I think it my be my power booster that's bad I got fluid leaking off the front of it and it only does it when the car is running and I apply the brake not when it's off 2 hours ago, EmTee said: Why? Those plastic reservoirs are not an improvement - at least from a performance perspective. The bores are aluminum and not rebuildable. Removing the lid to check the fluid level isn't really that difficult... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 9 hours ago, mcvalencia said: ...I got fluid leaking off the front of it... That sounds like a leaking master cylinder. If the seals are bad, fluid will be squeezed out around the push rod when the brake is applied and it will typically dribble out between the master cylinder and run down the front of the booster. On a car with manual brakes (no booster) fluid residue can sometimes be seem inside the car where the push rod comes through the firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 Back in the early 1990s I had a '64 Riviera master cylinder sleeved thinking I was good forever, just buy a rebuild kit. A few years ago I did the brakes. No master cylinder kit available. New offshore master cylinder are available for $65. I bought one of those but I was not real happy with the machining or casting quality. I pulled out the guts and used the parts to rebuild my sleeved one. Try a new $65 one. If the line fitting threads in easily you should be OK. I am not a proponent of converting to a dual master cylinder. Inspection and maintenance of a single circuit or two circuits will give the same reliability. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 With twice as many seals as a single master cylinder, the dual one actually has a lower MTBF... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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