TEVES ABS removal help needed

[2Shelbys]

Ok guys,

 

I have reached that point. I have been chasing down an issue with this PITA ABS system for a long time. It failed the main valve test so I replaced the ABS/master cylinder unit with the reman spare I had. Same problem. Used two different accumulators, one brand new, same problem. Changed the control unit out for a spare I have. Same problem. Bought and put in wheel sensors, same problem. I am throwing my hands in the air and screaming UNCLE (and some other words best left out) and I am going to convert it to standard brakes. I know HEMI has a great write up on this but I can not find it going pretty far back. Any input on the parts needed and which cars to get them from, and tips from those who have done it will be appreciated. As a bonus, getting rid of the ABS unit makes room for a 240SX strut tower brace.

 

Thanks a lot. 

[Hemi Dude]

Chrysler TC by Maserati Brake Booster Replacement is the link on ALLPAR website where it is published for anyone to read. If anyone wants to know what vehicles are most appropriate to get USED parts from, I would say any 'K' platform MOPAR from the late 80's to '95 would be the best choices. I got mine from a 1989 LeBaron Coupe with 4 wheel disc brakes, but it is OK to get your parts from a car with just front discs. The most important thing to remember is to install a NEW master cylinder for 4 wheel Disc Brakes on your TC.  For more info, TCA Club members know how to contact me, others, send a text on this site.  You might also think about updating the rear DISC calipers on your TC at the same time. Just use rear disc setup from any other 'K' platform MOPAR from 1989 to '95. 

[2Shelbys]

Thanks. I got the new master cylinder for a Daytona with four-wheel disc, and the booster, and a proportioning valve that was pulled off of a Daytona with four-wheel disc, which still has the front lines on it. I should have the pedal assembly coming as well. Instead of plugging one of the rear line holes in the proportioning valve, has anyone tried to run separate lines to the left and right rear brakes? Being Chrysler calipers, do the lines that go to them have standard flares, or are they euro style like the other end? I have never pulled mine. 

Edited April 12 by 2Shelbys (see edit history)

[Hemi Dude]

2 hours ago, 2Shelbys said:

Thanks. I got the new master cylinder for a Daytona with four-wheel disc, and the booster, and a proportioning valve that was pulled off of a Daytona with four-wheel disc, which still has the front lines on it. I should have the pedal assembly coming as well. Instead of plugging one of the rear line holes in the proportioning valve, has anyone tried to run separate lines to the left and right rear brakes? Being Chrysler calipers, do the lines that go to them have standard flares, or are they euro style like the other end? I have never pulled mine. 

Everting beyond the Teves components is standard American fittings like all other domestic Chrysler products.

If the Daytona is an 89 or newer, get the rear Disc Brakes as well.

Edited April 13 by Hemi Dude
added text. (see edit history)

[2Shelbys]

It was an ‘89 as far as I know. I already have a set of the 33 mm solid rear discs that I was going to put on my 87 GLHS when I bought it back. Unfortunately, I found out that the person I sold my GLHS to wasn’t being quite straightforward about its current condition. Supposedly it just needed a headliner, but it’s actually pretty much a complete Resto. The paint is mostly shot. I think the floor may be rusty on the driver’s side, there’s some rust in the frame and a couple of other spots. So now I’m sitting on a complete SLH2 brake upgrade for an L body that I’m not buying now. I also have spare rebuilt original calipers for the back of the TC. I guess I should pull the bulb out of the antilock brake warning light or I’ll be looking at that all the time.

Edited April 13 by 2Shelbys (see edit history)