Jump to content

WTB - 1968 Riviera Rear Wheel Chrome Trim - Drivers


Craig5498

Recommended Posts

Hello from Vancouver BC.

iam in search of two items for my recently purchased Riviera!

- driver rear chrome wheel trim

- plastic molding that runs along either side of the bench seat arm rest

please see the below pictures. The rear chrome trim has been dented and the plastic that covers the arm rest stitching is broken off.

thank you in advance for the help!

IMG_4564.jpeg

IMG_4572.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's hard to tell from the photo, but if the wheel opening molding is just flattened a bit it may be able to be straightened.  I have done that before myself using a hammer and different tools to bend the stainless back into shape.  Once the shape gets close it may require making some wooden dollies to get just the shape you want.  Once the dent is removed then bodywork the outside surface with ever finer sandpaper.  Final pass with some 1500 wet/dry paper and then polish with a cotton wheel on a bench grinder.  Many other '60s cars used anodized aluminum moldings which generally can't be repaired, but the stainless steel used on the Riviera at least allows for the repair option.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

EmTee is right. I have salvaged several pieces of Riviera stainless steels trim from the scrap heap. I have used sandpaper with grit as low as 150 and then as EmTee said worked my way up with ever finer grits and then polished on the buffing wheel. In one instance I even used a file to smooth an area before sanding. The stainless steel used is very forgiving. It will take time but, can be done.

 

Bill

Edited by Riviera63 (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Riviera63 said:

In one instance I even used a file to smooth an area before sanding.

Yes - I've done that too.  The key is to go slow and pay attention to the new pattern that appears with the first few file passes.  That will identify the high and low spots.  Work the low spots from behind with gentle hammer/dolly raps.  Tap the high spots on the face with the hammer.  Once you get close, you can carefully run the file across the face to even the surface before switching to the wet/dry paper with a sanding block.

 

I have a LR molding from my '67 that I replaced with another that was in better shape.  The one I removed has a couple of flat spots, but I haven't yet gotten around to straightening it yet since it's now an 'extra'...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...