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Many '77 Cuttie 455 swap questions...


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Hi there. I Have a '77 Cutlass supreme 2dr. i recently aquired an olds 455 that i was told came out of a '74 delta 88. The heads are Ga. The block is F. as of now, i plan on getting the comp cams xtreme cam and lifter kit (CCA-CL42-224-4 on summit), an edelbrock performer rpm intake. I also need a carb for all this. i have a recently rebuilt rochester 4bbl from the 350 that's currently in the car. will this carb be good for that setup? i eventually plan on getting the edelbrock aluminum heads after i get some money, but they will go in later. What should i do as far as exhaust? should i get headers? if so, how would i go about getting headers for a '77, with a 455? would the '76-455 headers work? any help is greatly appreciated. this will be my first swap, so if anyone has the time to give me some good tips and knowhow, IM me at guileparasite, or email me at: schott1984@insightbb.com

thanks a lot.

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Headers for a 73-76 455 car should fit. The cars are pretty much the same underneath. Your other option is to get a set of W/Z manifolds and use a 73-74 Cutlass crossmember for dual exhaust clearance. You might can use your existing 350 manifolds but they'll be a bit restrictive on a 455.

Make sure you get all the spacers on the motor mounts, you may need them to get the 455 set in the car right. Would be great if the 455 came with all the brackets too. They're supposedly the same between 350/455 those years, but just in case...

The Ga heads are 71-72 and are better than the 73-76 J heads. I think you're gonna be limited to a Torker intake, can't remember if Edelbrock still lists the Performer for BBO but I don't think there's an RPM option for those. Offenhauser still has a couple of BBO intakes. 77 350 carb will probably be marginal for a 455, but try it first, it might save you a little money.

You need a 455 starter too. You'll find out why on a hot day! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

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Yes.

The spacers go between the motor mount and the block and allow you to line things up right. If the old mounts are still on the engine they're probably there. It's a metal ring.

The Torker is a high rpm intake and won't do a heavy car like a 77 Cutlass much good on the street. The Performer will do better unless you plan to do some high-rev drag racing, and then you'll need cam, gears and stall to match the Torker's capabilities. Visit www.realoldspower.com that's where the hardcore Olds drag racers hang out. They can steer you the right direction and give you real world recommendations as to what works. But be forewarned- they can be kinda "bristly" and opinionated sometimes. They key with them is not to take anything personally.

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ok. i guess i'll go with the performer intake then. anyone know if those mounts that i posted the url to will work? also, will just a normal 455 starter do? if i plan on headers, will a mini one work better?

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I have done this swap...the 350 eng. mounts work fine. Hooker headers worked fine. I changed the crossmember to an older style from a late 60's Cutlass...bolted up fine with a little shortening and re drilling of bolt holes. Also changed to a turbo 400 trans. Driveshaft yoke needed to be changed. Had no clearance problems at all. Only sticky things I remember was that the pushrods must be in the eng. as some cant be put in after due to brake booster. Also some oil pan bolts couldnt be reached when sitting on the 350 mounts.

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Yep about the push rods. Put them in before lowering the engine into the engine bay of your car. I ran into this problem when I changed my cylinder heads. I bolted and torqued the heads and began to assemble the valve train. I got to number 8 cylinder and couldn't clear the area for the vent fan that protrudes from the firewall. It's made of plastic, so after some deliberation, I drilled 1/2 inch holes into to it so I could then get the push rods in place. I taped over the holes with duct tape. The Vacuum booster was not a problem on my car (85 LeSabre) but if it had been, I'd have had to pull the heads off again.

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Why did you change the crossmember? will i need to as well? could someone give me some tips on what i should do to the 455 before i get it in, and what to do after it's in? like the order of stuff.

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hmmm...i notice on my car that there's a hump underneath it running the length of the passenger area for the exhaust, but only on one side...for running dual exhaust, would you run both pipes in that one hump?

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