Brake light switch.

[PFitz]

For those rebuilding their '30 and later brake system. 

 

For a long time now the only replacement taillight switch is the high-pressure ones meant for later higher-pressure hydraulic brake systems. I've searched for many years and not been able to find a source of replacements that actually test to the 40-45 PSI of the original switches. Using the ones that work at over 100 psi that have been available through normal auto suppliers can cause an accident because the brake light does not come on at light braking pressure such as during slow driving with the engine in gear helping with braking. That is why the need of the low-pressure type were originally used.   

 

Bill (Hook on here) sent me a link to a source of low-pressure brake light hydraulic switches. I ordered and tested a couple, and they make electrical contact at 40-45 psi just like the originals. Safer than the high-pressure switches commonly available because these also work for light brake pressure.

 

Here's the link to the switches sold on Amazon.

Amazon.com: TMaster Low Pressure Hydraulic Brake Light Switch Street Hot Rod,for Any Brake System,Turns Brake Lights on at 45PSI : Automotive

 

Thank you Bill (Hook). 

 

These switches use either bayonet or bullet type connections. Connectors for both types are available from Rhode Island Wire Service. To keep the original look, I'm going to try making brass sleeves to solder over the bullet connectors to then thread and use a round head screw as original, so it then uses the ring type wire terminals originally used and also used with Rhode Island Wire Service's new wiring harnesses. 

 

Paul

[53 New Yorker]

Hi Paul,  AND Bill (HOOK)

Thank you for sharing this great information for these switches.

I'm going to put a blurb in the Franklin Service Station about them too.

 

Cheers 

W. W. III

[PFitz]

15 hours ago, 53 New Yorker said:

Hi Paul,  AND Bill (HOOK)

Thank you for sharing this great information for these switches.

I'm going to put a blurb in the Franklin Service Station about them too.

 

Cheers 

W. W. III

Good idea, Bill.

 

I meant to follow up. The switches do work at 40-45 psi. I was able to convert them to look and work like the original switch's terminals with brass stems that use small roundhead screws for the wire contacts. 

 

The thick-wall brass tubing I used to make slip-fit brass stems on the bayonet type terminals is McMaster-Carr #7782T591 and a #36 drill 29045A795 to fit the tubing onto the bayonets.   Then carefully solder the stems on the bayonet terminals, cut to lengths and drill and tap the new stems for a #6 RH slotted machine screw. 

 

Paul 

[53 New Yorker]

Great information Paul!

I'll quote you on this.  🙂

 

 Cheers,

 W. W. III

[PFitz]

16 hours ago, 53 New Yorker said:

Great information Paul!

I'll quote you on this.  🙂

 

 Cheers,

 W. W. III

Don't forget that thanks go to Bill (Hook) for finding the switches.

 

Paul

[53 New Yorker]

Bill and Paul

I just sent you both an email for your review.

Cheers,

 W. W. III

[PFitz]

2 hours ago, 53 New Yorker said:

Bill and Paul

I just sent you both an email for your review.

Cheers,

 W. W. III

Must have gone to my old email address. I changed it a while ago and updated the Club's email list and my parts ad.  Since then, Yahoo has taken over Frontier webmail, and I can't access it anymore.

Paul