1930 Buick Rear Wheel Bearing Removal - need advice

[Erndog]

 

I am in the process of cleaning up the right rear drum for a 1930 Buick 60 Series and have removed the bearing and other guts. However, the outer race for the Hyatt roller bearing and captured flat ring are quite stuck. The race for the other wheel basically fell out. I have tried using a slide hammer to remove the race, but did not overdo it.

 

My question is do you think it is safe to apply a good amount of heat to try to free it up? I believe it should handle the heat just fine, but want to be sure. I have put some heat on the situation, but no luck yet.

 

I would tap it out from the back side with a brass drift, but it is obviously inaccessible. Same goes for using a bearing press. There are two holes about at 3 and 9 o'clock below the indents, but not sure what purpose they serve, if any.

 

Any ideas for removal?

 

[Mark Gregush]

Looks like you need to clean those 2 holes out and use them to pull the sleeve. Guessing the puller might have had spring loaded arms or other means of keeping the arms with pins spread apart to keep the pins in those holes. Then the pulling frame for it sat around the opening, being open in the center with a threaded top. The arms remained stationary with the threaded section being allowed to rotate in it so as to pull straight up as the threaded rod was turned, pulling the sleeve up and out. 

[Erndog]

8 hours ago, Mark Gregush said:

Looks like you need to clean those 2 holes out and use them to pull the sleeve. Guessing the puller might have had spring loaded arms or other means of keeping the arms with pins spread apart to keep the pins in those holes. Then the pulling frame for it sat around the opening, being open in the center with a threaded top. The arms remained stationary with the threaded section being allowed to rotate in it so as to pull straight up as the threaded rod was turned, pulling the sleeve up and out. 

Yeah, that makes sense, but never seen any pullers even close to that arrangement. Also, as small as those holes are, any "cross-rods" that fit into them would probably just bend, given how much force I've already tried using.

 

[Mark Gregush]

You might try re-asking this question the pre war Buick forum as a new question. I see you did ask it there but is on page 3 of other question you have had. Someone might have the tool or know of someone that does.

Heat may or may not work. Both metals might expand at about the same rate and still be stuck. 

The one that fell out; it may have spun in the hub so is loose. You might need to use sleeve lock to hold in place if reusing or if replacing with new may still need to do the same. My guess is would have been press fit. 

I have a feeling that those 1/2 circle cutouts played a part in how the tool worked. May have helped keep the puller from rotating too much,

putting too much side force on the pulling pins. Don't know just making a guess. 

Quick sketch of something that might work. I know it is a bad drawing but might give you some ideas. 

Quick add; the part the spring loaded pins are in would be made out of DOM tubing sized to be a slip fit in sleeve. (Drawn Over Mandrel)

 

 

Edited October 10, 2023 by Mark Gregush (see edit history)

[Erndog]

3 minutes ago, Mark Gregush said:

You might try re-asking this question the pre war Buick forum as a new question. I see you did ask it there but is on page 3 of other question you have had. Someone might have the tool or know of someone that does.

Heat may or may not work. Both metals might expand at about the same rate and still be stuck. 

The one that fell out; it may have spun in the hub so is loose. You might need to use sleeve lock to hold in place if reusing or if replacing with new may still need to do the same. My guess is would have been press fit. 

I have a feeling that those 1/2 circle cutouts played a part in how the tool worked. May have helped keep the puller from rotating too much,

putting too much side force on the pulling pins. Don't know just making a guess. 

Quick sketch of something that might work. I know it is a bad drawing but might give you some ideas. 

 

 

Thank you very much. That is very good advice, and actually a pretty good drawing and design.

I am probably going to put this on my "really need to do" list until I get this car street ready. Currently, it is a rolling chassis and still needs the entire body recreated. If I ever get to that point, I will probably replace the wheel bearing assemblies in both back wheels. Not worth the time and money till then. Too many other issues to worry about.

Again, great response and thank you!

[DFeeney]

You could carefully  weld a piece of metal bar across the bearing race.  Then use a large bar coming from the outside to drive the bearing race out.  I have done this a few times and it's easier than you think.   I would think a puller with 2 ears is not the solution as the race is a pretty tight fit.