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1986 cutlass supreme - Brake light constantly on...is it safe??


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The brake light in my 86 cutlass supreme suddenly came on about 10 days ago when I tried to release the emergency brake and put the car in drive (while my foot was on the brake pedal). It has been on every since. After that, the brake seems to have been not as good as before. The car is taking a bit longer to come to a halt, there is a squeaking sound from the front right wheel as if some metal is scraping against a surface, and the brake pedal when pressed does not come back immediately after I press it. The container where the brake fluid is put in, has two chambers. The front one is empty. Someone told me that the backing plate of my rear left wheel is gone and there is a leak there. Is that right or is there something else wrong?

Can I fix this problem myself and if yes, what tools do I need and how do I do it?

<img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />I will really appreciate help on this issue, as it is unsafe for me to drive this car and I love it too much not to drive it every day.

thanks.

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anybody to help me with this problem?

Also, how do I bleed the system if there is a need? How do I find out whether it is the front or the rear that has the problem? The chamber in which I put the brake fluid has two sections. The front section is losing the brake fluid every day. The rear one is maintaining it. I was told that the front seciton is for the rear brakes adn the rear section is for the front brakes. As it is, the front brake (right side) is heating up tremendously as I write. I am totally confused about what to do. If I go to Midas, that is going to be a huge expense. What are my options?

Need help badly. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

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Try taking the car to a shop for brake inspection. I would have the whole thing redone. If you never worked on your own car before I wouldn't start with changing and repairing the brakes, it could be very hazardous.

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Seems like we answered this one. You need to go to Auto Zone or Advance or which ever major car parts store is nearby and get a Chilton's or Haynes book for your car. It should be easy to find and it's well worth the $15 or so it costs. There is no way I would attempt to explain bleeding brakes on this site. Pictures really help here. It's also best to have someone help who knows how. It's really a two man job if you're doing it in the driveway.

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Drop down a few articles in the Technical section and you'll find a similar question and some answers. If your losing fluid, the system is compromised, but it is redundant as far as safety. It needs immediate fixing unless you intend to stop by leaning on trees beside the road. Find the leak and fix it. It will be obvious. It could be the master cylinder [rebuildable]or a leak anywhere along the brake line [replaceable]. After repairing the leak, the system will have air inside the system. Air is compresable,but fluid is not. Bleeding the brakes is simply the way air is removed from the system. It's done by opening the system at a low point such as at the rear and front brakes, adding fluid to the master cylinder and pumping the brake pedal in order to push fluid and air out of the system. The fluid is captured in a container while the air just exhausts out. When The air is all gone, and all you get is fluid, button it up. How you accomplish this routine, and considering the tools at hand determines if you should do it yourself or take to a pro. When the air is gone, the dash light will go off.

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There's nothing like breaking off a bleeder valve screw on one of your calipers to make your day. If those things haven't been opened in a long time - I'm betting they haven't - and your a bit ham fisted, you can wring them off. Then it's a trip to the machine shop. Spray them first with PB Blaster or other good penetrating fluid and let it set a couple days. Then gently see if you can turn one using a line or box wrench. Go easy. If you round it out some while opening it, take it all the way out and get new ones. They're pretty cheap.

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Guest Albert

Sounds like you need new pads on the front and have the brakes bled, the front disk brakes consume brake fluid as the pads ware,when the pads are replaced the fluid should return back to the master, but will still need bleeding , you might also need a new rotor. My pontiac when the master becomes half full, it needs new front pads, just did a friend's Mercedes 190e on the weekend, big mess two rear rotors, two calipers, and the pads, about $225cdn in parts. What part of TO are you in ?

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I am in North York, on Eglinton and Victoria Park. Can you help me if I came to you? Midas is asking an arm and a leg. How can you help me? I am urgently in need of some help here.......

Will really appreciate a quick response.

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Guest Albert

I'am not far from you, 5min ,work at Don Mills &Eglinton and live Pharmacy south of st Clair. give ne a call after 7pm 524-9728 cell

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