tjenkins Posted April 15, 2003 Share Posted April 15, 2003 Anyone have a spare 'blue' color housing?--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 16, 2003 Share Posted April 16, 2003 This is not a direct answer to you predicament; however, I thought I might offer a possible alternative.I got tired of having the switch pod on the left side of the driver's seat constantly looking shabby. It keeps breaking off due to the fact that, in my opinion, it's in a vulnerable location (i.e. it keeps getting sat on).Before the plastic pod was completely destroyed, I decided to relocate the switches to a location under the front edge of the seat. This required a little bit of ingenuity but no rewiring. This keeps them out of harm?s way and still reasonably accessible. I will probably get some dummy switches to put in the pod and stick the pod on in some temporary way, just for show.Take a look at the attached pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjenkins Posted April 18, 2003 Author Share Posted April 18, 2003 Interesting and clever 'fix' for this universal problem. Why did the Buick engineers go with the 'side' route?Even if you don't sit on it, the sheer location is poor, in my opinion.Regardless, thanks for the idea. If I don't find a replacement, and the local "Gorilla Glue" doesn't fix it, I'll opt for your "Front Loaded Seat Switch Cluster" mod.--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted April 19, 2003 Share Posted April 19, 2003 Was constantly hitiing mine so relocated it about an inch lower on the seat which fixed the problem.As to why ? - Probably because the seats came down the assembly line already complted and the difference between a 16-way and a standard seat is all in the seat itself. Just plug, bolt, and go. Have seen the general put seat controls in all sorts of odd places but for the Reatta, the thigh adjustment precluded putting it on the front and there is no room on the console side so if you must put it on the seat (see "bean counters") that is really the only place.Could have been a whole lot smaller but that form factor swich has been used by GM for decades.Am still trying to figure out how to lower the whole seat at least an inch. Best chance is if I can find a lower pedestal from something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grm Posted April 19, 2003 Share Posted April 19, 2003 i need a gray one, if any one has a good one please email me and send price. by the way mine is missing the bolts, does anyone know the size and length. thanks grm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjenkins Posted April 20, 2003 Author Share Posted April 20, 2003 Btw,My housing was broken at 2 of the 4 mounting points. The design of the housing really does appear to be less than optimal.I initially tried to glue mine with epoxy. No dice. Then, seeing a $6 bottle of "Gorilla Glue", I thought what the heck - I need this stuff for wood anyway.I gave it a try yesterday, and can honestly say that this stuff is hard, tough and appears to hold the broken parts together. You DO need to clamp the two parts together, and for 24 hours. Foaming is normal for the adhesive. I had to make a 'jig' to hold it together.We'll see if it passes the true 'operational' test.Regarding the above, bolts appear to be 'self-threading screws, wide head (washer type), black in color, phillips #2 slot, at 1" in length.--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjenkins Posted April 21, 2003 Author Share Posted April 21, 2003 Success!Gorilla glue, although 'foaming' up quite a bit, seems to hold the rubber/plastic housing parts together.YMMV.--Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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