We have a problem Houston 1964??

[Dundee]

With my 1963 Mechano set I inherited a set (well naturally 1 spinner and 1 screw short) of wire caps. From what I understand by emblem and screw number etc I think they are 64 vintage but happy for someone to over time me. The problem is this: first layer and hub all okay but the top layer spokes don’t seem to bed down in the slots and kind of to long. Then the spinner cap won’t go down enough to get the screws to bite. I remember reading a post about chow some had pointed ends and others were a little more square at the ends of the spokes where they are bent but I have looked again and can’t find the post. Other than looking at bending the top layer of spokes near the spinner entry I am wondering whether everything is compatible? The lower large cap is 2.5” deep and I know the height varied there. At about week eight am I losing it???🤯 ps 1 week to lift off, transport to Assembly line that his….

thanks for any insight guys and gals.

[Riviera63]

2 hours ago, Dundee said:

With my 1963 Mechano set I inherited a set (well naturally 1 spinner and 1 screw short) of wire caps. From what I understand by emblem and screw number etc I think they are 64 vintage but happy for someone to over time me. The problem is this: first layer and hub all okay but the top layer spokes don’t seem to bed down in the slots and kind of to long. Then the spinner cap won’t go down enough to get the screws to bite. I remember reading a post about chow some had pointed ends and others were a little more square at the ends of the spokes where they are bent but I have looked again and can’t find the post. Other than looking at bending the top layer of spokes near the spinner entry I am wondering whether everything is compatible? The lower large cap is 2.5” deep and I know the height varied there. At about week eight am I losing it???🤯 ps 1 week to lift off, transport to Assembly line that his….

thanks for any insight guys and gals.

It looks as if you have the correct spokes where they are supposed to go. The squared off spokes go on the bottom layer and the longer round ended spokes go on the top layer as you show in your post. Here are some tips that I have used through the years of taking mine apart and reassembling through the years. 

 

1.) Make sure the center hub that sits on top of the first layer of spokes and under the second layer is seated firmly and all the way down as far as it supposed to go before starting the screws. Sometimes it takes a little adjustment to get the center hub to fit correctly over that bottom layer of spokes. I put a couple of drops of light machine oil in the screw holes when I reassemble. Make sure the screws are seated all the way down. Sometimes the screw threads will catch on the edge of the hole and stop. Keep going and you will hear a "pop" as the screw releases and continues in. This last comment about the "pop" won't make sense until you actually experience it.

 

2.) On the spokes there are 2 small sleeves that fit on the ends. These fit in the holes that go around the outer edge of the wheel cover disc. Some times these will loosen and move. Make sure they are fully seated on the end of the spoke. If they aren't the spoke will seem too long and not fit. Conversely, with the bottom row of spokes you can pull that sleeve out a little bit if a spoke seems to not stay put and the end keeps popping up.

 

3.) The top row of spokes not seeming to fit is normal. If it doesn't seem to want to fit, you can try flipping it over or just try a different spoke in that spot. For some reason certain spokes don't want to fit in certain spots. I always have a rubber mallet handy when I reassemble. A little gentle persuasion with the mallet will get the ends to sit in the grooves and lie flat. You have found out the spinner won't seat properly if those spokes aren't seated properly. 

 

4.) Make sure you have the correct screws for the spinner. Those four screws are longer than the 8 that hold the center hub.

 

I hope this helps. If you would like to get the correct center medallions for the 1963 wire wheel covers contact the Turbinator on the forum. He sells a really nice reproduction of those. Good used ones are very hard to find.

 

Bill

[Dundee]

8 hours ago, Riviera63 said:

It looks as if you have the correct spokes where they are supposed to go. The squared off spokes go on the bottom layer and the longer round ended spokes go on the top layer as you show in your post. Here are some tips that I have used through the years of taking mine apart and reassembling through the years. 

 

1.) Make sure the center hub that sits on top of the first layer of spokes and under the second layer is seated firmly and all the way down as far as it supposed to go before starting the screws. Sometimes it takes a little adjustment to get the center hub to fit correctly over that bottom layer of spokes. I put a couple of drops of light machine oil in the screw holes when I reassemble. Make sure the screws are seated all the way down. Sometimes the screw threads will catch on the edge of the hole and stop. Keep going and you will hear a "pop" as the screw releases and continues in. This last comment about the "pop" won't make sense until you actually experience it.

 

2.) On the spokes there are 2 small sleeves that fit on the ends. These fit in the holes that go around the outer edge of the wheel cover disc. Some times these will loosen and move. Make sure they are fully seated on the end of the spoke. If they aren't the spoke will seem too long and not fit. Conversely, with the bottom row of spokes you can pull that sleeve out a little bit if a spoke seems to not stay put and the end keeps popping up.

 

3.) The top row of spokes not seeming to fit is normal. If it doesn't seem to want to fit, you can try flipping it over or just try a different spoke in that spot. For some reason certain spokes don't want to fit in certain spots. I always have a rubber mallet handy when I reassemble. A little gentle persuasion with the mallet will get the ends to sit in the grooves and lie flat. You have found out the spinner won't seat properly if those spokes aren't seated properly. 

 

4.) Make sure you have the correct screws for the spinner. Those four screws are longer than the 8 that hold the center hub.

 

I hope this helps. If you would like to get the correct center medallions for the 1963 wire wheel covers contact the Turbinator on the forum. He sells a really nice reproduction of those. Good used ones are very hard to find.

 

Bill

Thanks Bill I will look at those end pieces on the spokes but seems like more of the same…persistence. !

I just wanted to assemble and fit one to see if it is going to be a permanent look for me or a change of scenery option. Have 2 different sets of steel caps as well and again mixed vintage but not a real fan of those. 
regards Ron 

[lrlforfun]

Ron: I have done at least 200 of these hubcaps. Tools needed are a 1/4" nut driver and a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 4" extension and 1/4" socket and a rubber mallet.

 

1. The short spokes go in first. Start by putting them in so the first spoke is on each side of the valve stem hole. The center area should  be caught in the lip of the ring. If they are too long use a rubber mallet to tap them more securely into the holes.

 

2. The center cap is indexed. The tall nub needs to be at almost 11:58 of the valve stem hole (at 12:00). Place the center cap on. Start the baby screws a few at a time and tighten gradually. Give the center cap a couple of love taps with the rubber mallet and finish tightening the 8 screws. When they are all tight and you've tapped it with the hammer it should be secure and ready for the long spokes.

 

3. Start with the valve stem hole at 6:00.  Start the spoke going in the middle of the valve stem hole and the "V" part should be resting in the center cap over the hole. Repeat all 12. if they protrude give them a tap with the rubber mallet and use pressure to get them to rest in the center piece 

 

4 The "R" spinner bar faces 3:00 with the valve stem hole at 3:00. It has 4 longer screws. I start with the top one and try to get it started with the spinner in place. You'll have to look to make sure the hole is in alignment. Next, do 6:00 (bottom spinner female). When they're secure then do the other two. You may need to use the rubber mallet if there is no contact between the screw and the hole. Button 'em down and y'all are good to go.   Remember if you mess up one step it will make for problems further down the assembly process.

 

 

Hope this helps, Mitch

 

 

Edited October 16, 2022 by lrlforfun (see edit history)

[Dundee]

7 hours ago, lrlforfun said:

Ron: I have done at least 200 of these hubcaps. Tools needed are a 1/4" nut driver and a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 4" extension and 1/4" socket and a rubber mallet.

 

1. The short spokes go in first. Start by putting them in so the first spoke is on each side of the valve stem hole. The center area should  be caught in the lip of the ring. If they are too long use a rubber mallet to tap them more securely into the holes.

 

2. The center cap is indexed. The tall nub needs to be at almost 11:58 of the valve stem hole (at 12:00). Place the center cap on. Start the baby screws a few at a time and tighten gradually. Give the center cap a couple of love taps with the rubber mallet and finish tightening the 8 screws. When they are all tight and you've tapped it with the hammer it should be secure and ready for the long spokes.

 

3. Start with the valve stem hole at 6:00.  Start the spoke going in the middle of the valve stem hole and the "V" part should be resting in the center cap over the hole. Repeat all 12. if they protrude give them a tap with the rubber mallet and use pressure to get them to rest in the center piece 

 

4 The "R" spinner bar faces 3:00 with the valve stem hole at 3:00. It has 4 longer screws. I start with the top one and try to get it started with the spinner in place. You'll have to look to make sure the hole is in alignment. Next, do 6:00 (bottom spinner female). When they're secure then do the other two. You may need to use the rubber mallet if there is no contact between the screw and the hole. Button 'em down and y'all are good to go.   Remember if you mess up one step it will make for problems further down the assembly process.

 

 

Hope this helps, Mitch

 

 

Hey Mitch

well that was a horrific hour and half after dinner to get one done.

can you please confirm the R spinner facing 3 with valve at 3 ( photo perhaps) ??

Also just checking all this gear is correct with emblem and rubber packer behind? The second layer took, I think, excessive force pushing them down and ever so easily tightening the screws like quarter turn at a time as I was concerned for stripping the thread in the spinner casting 🥵.

Understand that the week caps came to me in pieces as did the rest of the car and the last owner would have bought these form USA at possibly 20 years or more ago. I don’t know if he ever had them assembled and it definitely felt like excessive force. Having done so many you would  be aware of the different shaped ends at the bends. I can’t find the post but remember some were squarer ends versus the points I have for the top layer. Just want to make sure I am wrestling for the right reasons. They shouldn’t rattle that’s for sure..

Edited October 16, 2022 by Dundee
Spelling (see edit history)

[lrlforfun]

Alight: Looking at the cap the valve stem hole is at 3:00. The R is level, the spinner bars are horizontal facing 9 and 3:00. . Don't worry about stripping the threads as I have rarely done it. Get the 12:00 and 6:00 screws in and finger tight. Look in the center cap back to make sure the holes are lined up then sinch 'em down, just not with all your might. When they're snug, not tight give the spinner ring a couple of good shots with the rubber mallet, then sinch 'em down. WA-LA/

 

I use a wire wheel acid to clean everything. Spray on, let soak for a few minutes and use a detail brush to agitate, then rinse.  Befre putting everything together spray the cap with a ceramic detail spray, agitate with #0000 steel wool and wipe off. This gives more protection than a paste like Flitz or Wenol.  The spokes? Just steel wool and rinse, they'll sparkle. The chrome center cap and spinner, the same. I can do these in my sleep.

 

I listen to my favorite daily podcast while I'm working on them and the  time flies buy.   Mitch