37 President Ignition lock how to disassemble,

[RPAust1]

I need to replace the wiring to the rear of the ignition lock.

By depressing the pin the the access hole in the side of the outer casing I have been able to remove the locking ring, but the key barrel does not wish to come out. Does anyone know the trick to get it out so that I can get to the wire connection ? 

Thanks Rod

[37S2de]

If the purpose of this is to repair the original wire, why bother?

 

It appears the end of the armored cable that ends in the cap that goes over the top of the coil has already been cut. Has that cap and portion of the armored cable that goes through the firewall been saved?

 

If so, just bypass the original ignition lock by putting in a discrete toggle switch under the dash somewhere and run the wire coming off the ammeter that would go to the original keyed switch through it and up to the coil through that stub of armored cable.

 

Leave the original keyed switch in place in the dash to maintain the original look.

 

I have done this on both a ‘37 Coupe-Express  and ‘37 President.

 

Tom

 

 

 

[Studebaker1965]

Tom,

I replaced my entire harness, but I still have the original switch and armored cable to the cap on the coil.  Am I ok to continue running that original setup?  The wiring under the dash was in good shape for 80 years old, and I’m guessing there is not much movement inside the armor to damage the insulation.

 

thanks,

Nate

[37S2de]

Hi Nate

 

I wouldn’t have a problem at all using the original if the wires looked good. The originals that I have seen tend to have the wire insulation worn through right where the wire exits the armored cable at the cap. If that spot can be repaired with tape or shrink tubing or that liquid insulation-repair stuff, you should be good to go.

 

Did you make it to Indianapolis? I was there for the ASC meet, but left on Thursday and didn’t see much of the SDC portion

 

Tom

[Studebaker1965]

I did not get there.  It’s been a long time since I was at an international meet!  I’m hoping to get to South Bend this coming year.  I need to call you for advice on wiring up turn signals.  Once I get to that point, I’ll give you a call!  Thanks for the advice, I’ll check the insulation.

 

nate

[RPAust1]

Thanks for the suggestions, To compound the problem I do not have the key so I cannot line up the tumblers inside the barrel.  I don't particularly want to drill it out so I was hoping that there may have been a easy solution. 

The attached is how I obtained the car. 

 

Rod

[RPAust1]

One more question, would anybody know where the key number would be located. 

Its not on the front of the lock and the casing only has the part number showing 

 

Rod

[37S2de]

The Studebaker National Museum has the production records for 1937. I don’t remember if the key number was on the production order I bought for the ‘37 President that I used to own. I think it was, but can’t be positive.

 

You might call the Museum at 574-235-9714 to see what they currently charge for a copy of the production order that will tell you how your car came down the assembly line.  All you need to tell them is the serial number found on the tag that should be on the frame behind the left front fender. For ‘37 Presidents the serial number should start with “711”

 

Tom

[37S2de]

I just realized by looking at the picture of your car that it’s RHC and by your sign-in name that you are probably in Australia.  You might rather e-mail the museum at: sboocher@studebakermuseum.org

 

Tom

[RPAust1]

Thanks Tom , I will email.

Regards. Rod