1935 silverstreak oil breather smoke

[Silverstreak36]

Two questions 

First when I turn off car after a little drive I notice a small amount of smoke coming from oil breather on motor. Is this normal? Not a lot but still some almost like steam. 

 

Second question and a stupid one when down shifting or even shifting up sometimes I get some grinding. Now I dont force it so its very silent grind but I was told by an old collector that I can shift without clutch if rpm match the spline requirement this way it will keep clutch safer for longer. My question, I know some cars older trucks you can shift a life time without clutch and never cause damage. Is this car considered one of those or will it be detrimental to my clutch and tranny ?  

 

Thanks if it's bad how do I get into gear without grind or is it fine so long as I dont force it ?

 

I know I said two but it's three questions haha thanks 

[Bloo]

37 minutes ago, Silverstreak36 said:

First when I turn off car after a little drive I notice a small amount of smoke coming from oil breather on motor. Is this normal? Not a lot but still some almost like steam. 

 

Normal

 

37 minutes ago, Silverstreak36 said:

Second question and a stupid one when down shifting or even shifting up sometimes I get some grinding. Now I dont force it so its very silent grind but I was told by an old collector that I can shift without clutch if rpm match the spline requirement this way it will keep clutch safer for longer. My question, I know some cars older trucks you can shift a life time without clutch and never cause damage. Is this car considered one of those or will it be detrimental to my clutch and tranny ?  

 

It's a synchromesh transmission on second and third, so no need to shift it that way unless the synchros are really really shot. You can do it, and if you get it really right it shouldn't hurt anything. If/when you miss, you are causing a lot more wear than if you just used the clutch.

 

I typically do match RPM, and double clutch, but you don't necessarily have to double clutch either, as long as the synchros work.

 

The first thing I would do is get out the manual and adjust the clutch linkage to factory spec, to make sure the clutch is disengaging properly or at least doing all it can. If you ever have the toe boards out, there is a little cover on top of the bellhousing you can take off and an oil cup on the throw out bearing. It is not a bearing, but a carbon disc soaked in oil. It would like a drop or three of 50 weight oil in it's cup.

 

It is best not to hold down the pedal for long periods unnecessarily with this type of bearing.

 

The side motor mounts on these cars are also adjustable. See the shop manual, as there are several versions. If the clutch chatters badly on takeoff, they are probably out of whack. If the mounts are old and hard you might not be able to tighten them as much as the book says, but it will give you a good idea what to do.

 

Now about oil: A lot of synchromesh troubles are really just crap oil. If it were me, I would put some synchromesh oil of some sort in the transmission. It might make a big difference. I am using Redline 75w140NS, because it is the heaviest one. All of these are lighter than the no longer available SAE160 in the manual, and leak out faster, so check the level a lot until you get a handle on how much leaks out. It can and does also leak into the rear axle through the torque tube. There is only a cork seal holding it back.

 

Check the rear axle regularly too. Normal rear axle level is so you can bend one knuckle on your pinky and touch the oil. Up to the plug is less desirable but probably OK. It may get fuller, and you may have to take some out. If you are losing a lot of trans oil into the rear axle, change the rear axle oil now and then with some good GL5 gear oil, full enough so you can reach in and touch it. You can use the bottom pan bolt as a drain plug, with the fill plug open to let air in, but be aware it will take a long time to drain.

 

1 hour ago, Silverstreak36 said:

Thanks if it's bad how do I get into gear without grind or is it fine so long as I dont force it ?

 

 

 

If you mean at a stoplight, push the clutch down, "touch" second or third, and then go into first. The only non-synchronized gear is first.

 

EDIT: I  just realized you have a 1935, not 1936. If it is from late in the year, you have a Buick-based transmission like mine, but if it is earlier 1935, you would have a Chevrolet-based transmission closely related to the type used in Chevrolet Masters through the end of 1936. That transmission is known for weak synchros. A guy on the VCCA forums who has been driving one of those transmissions since the early 70s suggests Lubriplate SPO-288, which is really heavy and kind of the opposite of what I recommended above. Your mileage may vary. I think the idea in that case is for the oil to help slow the gears. If it were me I would still try some synchromesh oil before giving up and putting in the heavy goo, but it is food for thought. The Buick based transmission has an extremely short shift tower and you only see the shifter sticking up through the floor. If there is a shift tower sticking 2 or more inches up through the floor, you have the Chevrolet-based transmission.

 

[Silverstreak36]

Thanks for all the fantastic info sorry for typo it's a late model 36 sorry.

[Silverstreak36]

I also did clutch pedal adjustement today so pedal is much better and gapped right. I also had to tighten other long screw at bottom of pedal that is attached with bolt and codder pin. Helped a lot to allow clutch to fully disengage