Guest Posted December 15, 2002 Share Posted December 15, 2002 Does anyone know of a business that will repair the clutch from a 1924 DB Business Coupe? It will not release completely when shifting. Grinds terribly when trying to put into gear. I would remove the clutch and ship it to any location that is reputable.Thanks for any information you can supply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 16, 2002 Share Posted December 16, 2002 HAS THE CAR BEEN SITTING FOR A LONG TIME?I HAD THE PROBLEM WITH MY 26.THE REPAIR MANUAL SAYS TO REMOVE THE TOP COVER AND BOTTOM PLUG AND WASH THE DISKS DOWN WITH KEROSENE AS THEY COULD BE STICKING TOGETHER.DO YOU HAVE MULTIPLE DISKS?AFTER I DID THAT AND DROVE IT FOR AWHILE IT WORKED.ALSO TRY LETTING YOUR RPMS COME DOWN BEFORE YOU SHIFT AND DOUBLE CLUTCHING SEEMS TO HELP.I WOULD TRY THAT BEFORE YOU TEAR YOUR CLUTCH OUT IN MY OPINION.LET US KNOW WHAT HAPPENS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JB-ed Posted December 16, 2002 Share Posted December 16, 2002 If for any reason you DO decide to take out that clutch assembly and disassemble it, be extremely careful. There is a fixture you need before you dare to release that clutch spring. People have been decapitated doing this without proper precautions. It is especially deceiving when the plates appear to be stuck together because the spring may not release immediately and you may not feel that pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickBrinker Posted December 31, 2002 Share Posted December 31, 2002 My 1925 Dodge did the same thing untill i got the right oil in the trans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 1, 2003 Share Posted January 1, 2003 Ft. Wayne clutch, Ft. Wayne, IN does a good job on clutch rebuilding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted January 1, 2003 Share Posted January 1, 2003 rick bricker, what oil did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 1, 2003 Share Posted January 1, 2003 From memory, the oil is extremely heavy, I mixed some 130 weight with some grease to make up a batch of oil. Can't remember the right terminology, but it is like "steam engine oil". The multiplate clutch should work for years, mastering a reverse layshaft gearbox without "crunching" is another matter. I have found that double clutching is useless when trying to change up, you just need to let the gears slow down. When changing back down through the gears, ie, 3rd back to 2nd, double clutching is the only way to go. The reverse layshaft design means it will always crunch coming out of top and back to neutral, as the mainshaft re-engages with the layshaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted January 4, 2003 Share Posted January 4, 2003 my 24 acts the same way. if the trans is cold and the engine idleing i can shift into gear. i've taken off the inspection plate and made sure all the clutch plates are free, changed the oil to Fix Or Repair Daily model T oil and it still grinds some on upshifts and when going from third to nuetral as described above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 6, 2003 Share Posted January 6, 2003 Thanks to all of you for the information. Now that the holidays are over, I will try some of the posted suggestions and let you know how it turns out. I am such a novice that I don't know whether the use of kerosene can be done with the clutch in the car or not. I will crawl under and see if there is room to flush from under the car. Also, the oil/grease is for the transmission, right?Joe <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted January 6, 2003 Share Posted January 6, 2003 i took the inspection plate off at the base of the shifter. then held the clutch in with one hand and used a screwdriver to make sure none of the clutch plates were rusted together. be careful not to scratch any of the discs. maybe a little brakeclean would be a more modern cleanser than kero. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest leadfoot Posted January 6, 2003 Share Posted January 6, 2003 Two things I do to keep my clutch working reasonably. Every few years I clean it according to the instructions in the 23 owner's manual - I substituted carb cleaner for kerosene. And I keep the throwout bearing fully lubricated. The maintenance schedule calls for turning (pressuring) the grease cup cap every 100 miles. The DB is real smooth after a lube and double clutches smoothly, but after about 100 miles of touring, shifting is somewhat trickier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest leadfoot Posted January 7, 2003 Share Posted January 7, 2003 Joe -The bottom of the transmission bellhousing is vented and will allow the fluid to drain out. If you have a DB owner's manual, it will explain how to flush the clutch plates. 600W gear oil is for the transmission, chassis grease for the throw out bearing, which has a grease fitting on the floor board near the starter switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest alex_houston Posted December 30, 2004 Share Posted December 30, 2004 My 2 cents worth.If you get your car in gear and it gets the car going without slipping, the clutch faces are most likely not your problem. I found that the discs can stick together with time. Also,the posts can "groove" and bind on the plates not allowing them to release. My clutch facings were wore out and I had them refaced at "Heightman Company" in Houston. They however did not have the skill to disassemble the assy and I had to do that myself. From my experience, be careful to measure the max thickness the clutch pack can be. You can do that with the assy together without the clutch pack inside. Mine was faced and the pack was so thick that I barely was able to adjust to get it to release. Too thin, and it won't hold. It's very tricky so I do suggest find someone with experience with the Dodge Multiple clutch packs if you can. Also, the driven plates are bad about ovaling out so that they cannot operate properly. Don't be suprised to find you have to replace them if your car has been treated rough. Also, the posts may have to be replaced or in my case, I removed the burrs with a file and emery cloth.I also replaced my pilot bearing with a sealed bearing, same manufacturer and bearing number as '24 is still available at my local bearing supplier.I took photos of my rig/press and disassembled clutch if it could help you.Good luckapinyoz@ev1.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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