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Got the 1920 touring home!


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We got the 20 home yesterday. Drove it on and off the trailer, which was the only way I could, winch not working. Had to take out the float and fill the carb bowl from the V tank, run till died then repeated. There was flooding when I opened the valve on the V tank because the float sunk. The float has some major cracking that will not be fixable, would add too much weight. When we got it home, I had a spare float that seems to be working. 👍
Ok so on the plus side I drained the oil today. Very black but the screen was pretty darn clean. Could not feel any sludge on the bottom of pan. So must have been off and cleaned. 👍
I was going to swap out the front axle this weekend, BUT the springs that were used with the later axle under it are two inches wide, should be around 1-3/4" for the axle I was going to use and the mounts. They must have ground down the eye in front but did not do anything about the shackles in the rear, wondered why they were so wonky looking! 😕So will have to take changing it off the table for now.
One of the rear tires was beyond petrified, it was turning back in to carbon! LOL I swapped it out with another used one that I had. Got it mounted and on the car before I saw the splits in the side wall! Oh poo! I dropped the pressure down to just enough to support the car. The tube in it is newer and don't want to wreck it.
Tomorrow I am going to change the top radiator hose and look at turning starter/gen the correct direction. Right now the fuse is on the engine side and can't easily get to the screw to take the brush cover off. Need to see why no charging.
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Quick update; The float is holding. Replaced the upper hose. Turned the self commencer/generator the correct direction. No output because the fuse holder was badly corroded and dirty. Cleaned it and put in 10 amp fuse. The armature looks good and is undercut. Put the water back in and started it. I've got generator output. 🥳Need to get rings for the exhaust manifold and put the exhaust pipe nut on. Enough for today, I've got some other things to work on.
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You may know this but you are missing the metal band around the rear of the starter generator. Also hard to see in the photo if the oil float is there between the first and second cylinders. It may have sunk due to a whole in the float (common issue). If you are lucky you may be able to see the top tip of the thin rod in the hole.

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The band is put back on. It was off while I turned the unit back the correct direction so I could check the brushes etc. The fuse holder was rotated so it was between the stater/gen and block and the screw to take the band off was on the bottom.  It may have migrated there because the locking tab washer is missing or was just installed wrong. The float is working great. I may have snapped the photo before I put oil back in or it is just hidden behind the support screw.

I have also got the head lights working and power to the tail light wire on bright, but nothing when the  switch is turned to dim. I will have to take the switch apart and make sure the contacts are clocked correct and clean. I would suspect the resister but there is no power to the tail light wire so not making contact in the switch.

Edited by Mark Gregush (see edit history)
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The Dykes 1925 manual has a pretty good section on the NE units. I got lucky on this one, just dirty fuse holder. The other one on a 1919 roadster that was at the same place, the guy working on it has not been so lucky.

Oh I got the low beam working. The buss bar between the two contacts had a crack in it, soldered a bridge across. :)

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