1927 Chevrolet Superior Starter issue

[jackofalltrades70]

Hey guys.  Been awhile since I posted anything of significance.  I have acquired two cars this last week and am trying to get the 27 Chevy running. It has been in a barn, (yes a barn find) for the last 28 years. Before that, the PO was restoring the car. Has all new wood, new wiring harness, tires, top and paint was new.  Now, the paint is chipping off in places and I have the car almost put back together. My problem now is the starter will turn, but the gear does not automatically run out the shaft to engage the flywheel.  It will move out 1/2” and stops. Does it require any special lubrication?  I have sprayed the worm with silicone spray and have it out of the car cycling the starter and it just doesnt want to come all the way out.

 

more on the barn find in another thread.  I promise 

Edited June 25, 2020 by jackofalltrades70 (see edit history)

[rsb]

Sweet little coupe although I think it's a 1926 based on the headlights and the radiator shell. Have you checked the starter in the car? There may not be enough amperage to fully drive it with just jumper cables.

[keiser31]

48 minutes ago, rsb said:

Sweet little coupe although I think it's a 1926 based on the headlights and the radiator shell. Have you checked the starter in the car? There may not be enough amperage to fully drive it with just jumper cables.

I agree.

[jackofalltrades70]

Think car is a 26’ but paperwork says 27’. Oh well.  
Cleaned all the paint off the engine and starter and cleaned up the direct drive on the starter. Got the engine to crank over. New battery today that is correct for the car. Got all the wires connected under the Hood. Taillight comes on and stays on. Will have to figure out what is hooked up wrong there. 
 

i have no voltage to points and coil is not firing. What is the dial on top of the coil?  There was two ends of small wire hanging out of it and, now that I pulled it, there is t any wire underneath the knob.

 

Matt

[rsb]

Sounds like you have an original coil. The "dial" or "knob" as you describe it is a ballast resistor for the coil. It keeps the coil from overheating when ignition is on for long periods without the engine running. The resistor should have a circular porcelain core with spiraled wire running around its circumference. You can test it with a continuity tester / ohm meter. If it has continuity, it's good. If not, that would explain why your coil is not firing. Perhaps the internal wire has rusted away.