1955 - Exterior Door Handle and Chrome Frame Removal

[Guest]

Hey guys - this winters project is to get my door handles looking presentable - as in re-chrome. Looking for something easy after last years front suspension and power steering fiasco. Figure I better pace myself. So here we go:

1) I got all the interior handles off and arm rest off - no sweat. I started pulling the interior panel out. All that seems to hold it in there is these little nails. I pulled a couple out - lower metal frame of the interior panel is all rotted - will need to be replaced. Some of the nails are really stuck in there. Are these suckers all that holds the door panel in after the arm-rest and handles are off? I guess I want to check before I really lay into this and start trying to really pry some of them out with a wide bladed tool. Some of the holes in the door that the nails go into are bigger due to rust so they don't fit so tight. Best way to fix without welding the holes shut and re-drilling?

2) Once I get the interior panels off, are the exterior handle attachments accessable or do I need to pull the whole window mechanism out. Not a problem, just want a heads up of what to expect before I get there. I have manual windows.

3) How does the pushbutton separate from the handle - I assume it does because the button looks like stainless vs chrome and I figure you need to pull that off before you send the handle to the chrome shop. Do I need any special tools?

4) Side note - if I want to get the chrome trim around the side window glass re-done - how do you get that off? I figure its some kind of adhesive holding the glass into the chrome, but is that something you take to a glass shop to get removed or can a careful DIY'er get it off and send the frame for rechrome. How do you get the frame back on the glass?

Thanks for the insight.

[KAD36]

Whoops - the login bug hosed me. That was my post up there.

[old-tank]

Hey Ken

You ARE a glutton for punishment! Anyhow I can scan the pages from a Fisher book and either email to you or if someone has web space available i can upload there so all can share.

Willie

[Guest]

It's a fairly easy task--just did it myself Saturday on my '54 Century 2-dr. hardtop, and I'm no great mechanic. Half or more of the door panel nails will break off in the door, but if you have one or two that still work, the armrest, inside door and window handles, and the two bottom corner screws will hold the panel just fine after you're done. You do not have to remove the window, just roll it up all the way, so you can access the two screws that hold the exterior door handle in place. Unscrew them, remove the door handle, then with a small screwdriver, pry off the snap ring that holds the pushbutton and the return spring in place. Watch out--it will go flying across the room!

The window frame is removed by hammering on a soft piece of 2 by 4 wood laid against the chrome frame. Before you do this, lay the entire window down flat on a soft piece of cloth or carpet, to help absorb the shocks. Or, take it to a glass shop, and they can remove the chrome frame.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Ector, Tx

1956 46-R

1954 66-R

1950 46-S

[KAD36]

Yea, Willie - straightening out that PS gearbox really screwed up my seasonal hobby timing. If you and some of the guys hadn't gotten me through it I'd still be under there cussin' at it. I used to work inside on the model railroad when it was cold and outside on the Buick when it was warm. I think my next project will be to plumb a radiator into the boiler to heat the garage. If there is no volunteer site by Friday, I'd sure appreciate an e-mail with the scan of the manual pages in time for Saturday afternoon if you can get to it.

Pete - thanks for the tips and heads up - this sounds very do-able. What could possibly go wrong? Looks like I'll just have to pull on the panels till they pop out and get an interior shop to get me some new metal frames (the interior material is still in very good shape). Out of curiosity - are those "nails" still readily available through interior shops?

As far as the glass goes, tapping a 2x4 against the chrome frame that fits into some old glass sounds a little hairy. Is there any solvent or anything you can put on to ease the removal? WD40 maybe? How do you press the frame back on and get it to stick? I'd like to do the side windows and wing vents. This may require staring at it in the garage for a long time over a few beers. One of the side windows has a small crack in it (about 3/4 inch). Maybe I'll experiment on that one first since its already broken.

[Guest]

You need to get a copy of the CARS, Inc. catalogue from Glenn Cecchine in New Jersey. They have all of the parts and supplies you need (door panel nails, glass setting channel, window handle horseshoe clips, etc.). Take it from someone who has tried many times, it is not worth the trouble to try and install new nails in the interior door panels, especially if one or two of them are still working. It is just an exercise in frustration, and the new ones are guaranteed to either fall out or not line up with the holes. That's why I noted that it will stay in place just fine with the other items installed. That's also why most upholstery shops today just drill 8 or 10 new holes all around the edge of the door panel and reattach it that way with chrome-plated screws (makes me PUKE when I see that, as it totally destroys the door panel for anyone else).

The glass setting channel holds the metal frame on the new glass. You can also add some weatherstripping cement for good measure. Most glass shops stock this. I usually just let them do the glass replacement and the remounting of the metal frame. Then I reinstall the window myself. W-D 40 will not help much, as it does not really interact with the glass setting channel, which is sort of like a thin strip of tar paper, but give it a try if your metal frame is rusty.

I doubt if you will find a replacement metal strip for the bottom of the door panel. Once again, when the other items are installed, it will hold in place just fine without it, unless your cardboard backing is warped. This is one area of old car restoration where I have a LOT of experience (can't say that about all other parts of the car!), as every Buick I have restored in the last 20 years has needed this work done to it.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Ector, TX

[KAD36]

Thanks again Pete - I have last years CARS catalog - I'll dig it up. If I have more questions, I'll be lookin' for you to share some war stories.

[old-tank]

Hi Ken

Here are links to eleven pages that may help you:

http://cyberbuick.servebeer.com/~old-tank/55door50-700001.JPG

http://cyberbuick.servebeer.com/~old-tank/55door50-700002.JPG

http://cyberbuick.servebeer.com/~old-tank/55door50-700003.JPG

http://cyberbuick.servebeer.com/~old-tank/55door50-700004.JPG

http://cyberbuick.servebeer.com/~old-tank/55door50-700005.JPG

http://cyberbuick.servebeer.com/~old-tank/55door50-700006.JPG

http://cyberbuick.servebeer.com/~old-tank/55door50-700007.JPG

http://cyberbuick.servebeer.com/~old-tank/55door50-700008.JPG

http://cyberbuick.servebeer.com/~old-tank/55door50-700009.JPG

http://cyberbuick.servebeer.com/~old-tank/55door50-700010.JPG

http://cyberbuick.servebeer.com/~old-tank/55door50-700011.JPG

The best way to print is to save to file and then open with a photo printing or viewing program and print from there, also some are scanned in color so set your printer to black and white to save color ink and speed up the printing.

I cannot leave this on the server for long so if you think you will ever need it copy to file now.

Willie

[KAD36]

Thank you Willie - I copied all 11 pages down no problem. This is good information. I'll keep it with my Service and TSB manuals.