series 11A distributor

[Franklin Olympic]

Eddie is trying to put his distributor back in his 11A coupe. He is having difficulties. Is there a trick to getting those gears to mesh up?

[Franklin Olympic]

Went looking more into Ed's 11A. I told Ed to turn over the engine with the hand crank and I saw that the oil pump gear was not turning. The cam shift is turning but the oil pump gear is standing still. I think that gear is supposed to lift out through the opening but we can't budge it.  Any suggestions? Dave

[PFitz]

When the distributer was removed, the oil pump drive gear may have moved up enough that it is no longer in  mesh with the gear on the camshaft.  The  shaft that extends up from the gear into the underside of the distributor base and thrust washer, sometimes causes suction and lifts the drive gear enough to disengage it from the camshaft as the distributer base is removed.

 

And, if that pump drive gear was raised enough and turned slightly, the blade on the bottom end of the oil pump drive shaft is not dropping into the slot in the top end of the lower pump drive shaft. With the pump drive shaft gear not seated, that's also likely why the distributer won't go back in.    Otherwise, the only other way the pump drive gear won't turn with the camshaft is if it has broken teeth. 

 

Oil pump drive gear not coming out after many years is common. The gear's  shaft where it's not inside a bushing gets a layer of thickened motor oil goo built up over the years. That makes it tough to lift  the shaft out through the upper bushing. Usually have to carefully pry the gear up so it gets the bushing to scrap off the layer of goo. Then it will come all the way out.

 

Don't forget to put the engine back on number one cylinder TDC with both valves closed, and with the distributer rotor pointing toward the number one spark plug wire terminal in the distributer cap when you put the distributor back in. Then it will be close enough to fine tune the ignition timing.  

 

Paul 

Edited March 2, 2020 by PFitz (see edit history)

[Franklin Olympic]

Paul, Last night we had a team of young mechanics here working on my 35 Ford V8 engine. After that, we fooled a little with the 15 Hudson carb.  Chris, one of the team, was interested in the problem we were having with Eddie's 25. So we all went up to Eddie's garage and started looking at that stubborn oil pum gear. Fortunately, Mark got into his collection of tools and produced 3 "Ladyslipper" pry bars. With them, the reluctant gear fnally came out. I was happy to see, no damage. Eddie spent several hours today cleanning with my rifle cleaning rods and now the gear goes in and lines up with the key way on the bottom. Eddie is happy. Now I'll have to help him set up the timing. Dave

[PFitz]

Dave,

 Very good.

 

Just remember to get the motor on #1 cylinder compression stroke with the fan's 3/4 inch timing mark lined up with the edge of the baffle at 12 o'clock down in the air box, before putting distributor back in with rotor pointing to #1 spark plug wire terminal in the distributor cap. The helical gears will change the rotor angle as it drops in, so you need to start with the rotor offset and then the rotor will align as the distributor base settles into place.  Timing is set with the spark cable handle pushed all the way in to the dash board.

 

Paul 

Edited March 9, 2020 by PFitz (see edit history)

[Franklin Olympic]

Paul, on our series 11s the timing is adjusted with a lever that moves right to left. All the way to the right is retard and all the way to the left is advance.  Dave

[PFitz]

33 minutes ago, Franklin Olympic said:

Paul, on our series 11s the timing is adjusted with a lever that moves right to left. All the way to the right is retard and all the way to the left is advance.  Dave

 When setting ignition timing -  either lever or push/pull handle - you always want it  in the full advance position.

 

Paul