Side Molding removal best method?

[Reattatude]

Hi guys,

 

You tell me. : )

 

I have a removal tool that works well taking off the metal trim on my Roadmaster wagon and some of the

cheapie Harbor freight plastic tools.

 

If there is a easy technique to get the molding off that is what I need to know so I don't gimp something up.

 

Thanks

[waltmail]

Good luck. Awhile ago I began removing the side trim moulding. I stopped after removing the driver side small rear piece. The inside surface sorta crumbled and the clips broke. It should just slide rearward and then be free.

Edited November 8, 2016 by waltmail (see edit history)

[KDirk]

The removal technique varies based on which piece is being removed. The short piece on the front fenders is held on by two 7/16" acorn nuts, no clips. The piece on the door has an acorn but at both ends (one at hinge end is a bit difficult to access) and once removed, the top edge of the molding should be pried off first to reduce the chance of damaging the clips.

 

The rear fender pieces are held with clips (similar to those on the doors) only. Sometimes you can slide the molding forward (towards front of car) and disengage the clips from the studs so they are removed still attached to the molding. If the molding won't move laterally, then it can be pried off top first as with the door molding.

 

I recommend a plastic pry tool and putting something on the paint above the molding to protect it when prying. Note that the door and rear fender moldings can be removed bottom edge first but this risks breaking the lower tabs off of the clips and damaging the slot in the back of the molding that the tabs catch.

[NCReatta]

5 hours ago, KDirk said:

The removal technique varies based on which piece is being removed. The short piece on the front fenders is held on by two 7/16" acorn nuts, no clips. The piece on the door has an acorn but at both ends (one at hinge end is a bit difficult to access) and once removed, the top edge of the molding should be pried off first to reduce the chance of damaging the clips.

 

The rear fender pieces are held with clips (similar to those on the doors) only. Sometimes you can slide the molding forward (towards front of car) and disengage the clips from the studs so they are removed still attached to the molding. If the molding won't move laterally, then it can be pried off top first as with the door molding.

 

I recommend a plastic pry tool and putting something on the paint above the molding to protect it when prying. Note that the door and rear fender moldings can be removed bottom edge first but this risks breaking the lower tabs off of the clips and damaging the slot in the back of the molding that the tabs catch.

 

I would highly reccomend removing tbe moulding s from the bottom. Not the top. You might break a clip, but you won't damage the door or the moulding.

 

you can use your fingers if you're taking it off from the bottom, so you won't need to use any tools that might scratch the door or pry against the door. 

 

Clips are cheap and easy to replace. The mouldings not so much. I've removed over 250 of these mouldings using this method and have only had 6 clips break. 

Edited November 9, 2016 by NCReatta (see edit history)

[KDirk]

Funny, my experience has generally been the opposite, but admittedly with far fewer sets removed. I have damaged clips and moldings a few times by removing from the bottom edge. As well, installation is done bottom first with the top snapping over the clips as the final step. So, it seemed logical to me that removal was done in opposite order. I'll defer to Marck on this one, he has disassembled many more than I have and experience is typcially a good guide.