37S2de Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 I continue to work on the engine in my '35 Commander, and as long as I have the hood and radiator support rods removed, I would like to take the radiator out to check it while I have the chance. I've removed the fan assembly and the engine cylinder head and it looks like there is clearance to get the radiator out. George Rohrbach told me at Hershey that he was able to remove the radiator from a '35 Commander without removing the whole front clip, so I'm confident it can be done. My problem is that I can't figure out how to access the heads of the bolts holding the bottom support bracket on. I know I must be missing something simple. The shop manual is silent. I guess Studebaker figured any dummy should be able to get a radiator out without instructions. I've attached a photo (taken from underneath) of the three bolts I suspect have to come out. And once out, will have to go back in someday and tightened up Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37S2de Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 Just bumping this up because it got buried pretty quickly. I guess this is maybe not going to be as simple as I thought. I spoke with a man in Florida who owns two '35 Dictators. He said that the only way he was able to get the radiator out was to remove the whole front clip and then remove the grille shell to access those bolts to get the radiator out. Does this strike a chord with anyone? I'm thinking at this point that if the whole clip has to come off, that I might as well finish my engine work and get it all back together. I cleaned a lot of gunk out of the engine while the side water jacket was off. If it overheats after I get the engine finished, then it really doesn't take any more work to get the front clip off if the engine is assembled or not. If it doesn't overheat, then I've saved about a thousand bucks because no matter what condition the radiator is in, if I take it to any shop, they will say it needs to be recored Thoughts? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1934 commander Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 i agrree to get radiator out is to remove front clip takeing fan assembly out also . a year ago i was at your posisition clean out rust particles behind water manifold repeated flushing and vacuming with a 1/2 inch hose attached to a shop vac the amount of crude was alot . my 1934 commander was also overheating bubbiling out the overflow tube. it was winter so instead of missing summer driving time decided it was best to go all the way. removed front clip not all that hard maybe 10 bolts 2 hours of crawling around on a creeper and the heip of friend to hold wrenchs where my arms could not reach it was on the floor . removed radiator and at low pressure filling it up with water at the lower hose connection the amount of sludge comming out of cap was almost as bad as behind water manifold cover. decided to increase my odds for summer driving went to local radiator shop well known for his high end restoration work .excited he was to see a radiator well built and not leaking . next step he removed lower shell rodded out resolderd painted we were all set 1 week later putting evans pre antifreeze system cleaner which just any water out including heater we then filled with evans antifreeze all set to start the girl up and check for leaks . water manifold bolts were a little pain tighten from center out one would leak then a differant one finally all set just a little turn a the drip is gone . original hose style clamps also were a pain but in time and some not so nice under my breath words no leaks . just in time for the spring driving and a few local car shows including warwcik RI. runs a normal temp up down hills and at 45. your radiator looks to be in as good shape you might want to take the time now it takes the guess work out of will it be ok. i do not type very often excuse all spelling errors and grammor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken1007 Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 On 11/11/2016 at 4:16 PM, 37S2de said: Just bumping this up because it got buried pretty quickly. I guess this is maybe not going to be as simple as I thought. I spoke with a man in Florida who owns two '35 Dictators. He said that the only way he was able to get the radiator out was to remove the whole front clip and then remove the grille shell to access those bolts to get the radiator out. Does this strike a chord with anyone? I'm thinking at this point that if the whole clip has to come off, that I might as well finish my engine work and get it all back together. I cleaned a lot of gunk out of the engine while the side water jacket was off. If it overheats after I get the engine finished, then it really doesn't take any more work to get the front clip off if the engine is assembled or not. If it doesn't overheat, then I've saved about a thousand bucks because no matter what condition the radiator is in, if I take it to any shop, they will say it needs to be recored Thoughts? Tom Recently completed near frame off on 35 Dictator that involved removing engine/tranny and radiator. To remove radiator the front two fenders came off including the grill surround and grill, the combination is quite heavy. In your picture you show the three bolts (maybe 5/16 or 3/8 inch) that hold the radiator in place on each side, two of those bolts were accessible, the third one was not until fender was removed. In that picture there is support rod with a cone shape terminal; inside cone is a large bolt (maybe 1/2 inch) that can be access only from inside the right and left front fender. It is a nightmare to get out and even worse to put back end, so get some else to do it, if you can. The radiator did not need to be re-cored, but it still cost about $300. Ironically, removing the front fenders was a piece of cake, compared to the radiator and when I restore a car the I prefer to avoid doing something a second time. So at least have the radiator professionally checked out. In my case, repair shops in a reasonable distance, just laugh when you asked them to look at a Studebaker , especially one this old, so good luck in finding someone. Ken, Deltaville, Va Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studeq Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 For your possible interest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1934 commander Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 yes it wasnt all that much fun thank the lord for gravity since parts landed on floor and not on the ceiling. it is as Mr. Richard Quinn collection service bulletin suggest a 2 person ordeal. thank you Richard for this neat info it also showed how long 1934 to Nov 1935 before they printed a responce to questions which service men had asked. best steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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