ken1007

Does anyone recognize what car from the 1980's this rear quarter panel regulator came from? This one came out of a 1989 Avanti convertible that used many General Motors parts but that search came up negative. At this point the last possibility is the junk yard, but need to know what model. Does anyone recognize this regulator, the motor is fine but needs cable. NOS is, reportedly, no longer available. It was rebuilt 11 years ago by Window Motor World .

3 each WW , (1 rebuilt by Daytona Carburetor to install), 1 WE single barrel, 1 AFB, and 1 WCFB, make reasonable offer, no longer working on cars. Pick-up can take decades of free magazines, TW, Avanti, and Antique Stude. Also have Virginia show quality YOM plates: 1934, 1954, 1956, 1963. ADDED - 2 each WW 6-130, 1 EACH WW-127

3 each WW, one rebuilt by Daytona Carburetor and ready to install. 1 WE single barrel, 1 AFB, and 1 WCFB. Make reasonable offer for all. Ken, Deltaville, Va WW: 2 each 6-130 , 1 each 6-127

This was ordered for a early Studebaker, but did not fit. Not sure of its origin, might be '30-'40 Ford or Chevrolet. Any way if you are interested, make reasonable offer. Note measurements: 4-7/8 " high, 8-5/8" diameter, 2-9/32"carburetor opening. Pick-up or will mail least expensive USPS, no "handling" fee. Ken

Sorry, my mistake, got wrong pictures and it's an WW. The EE is a for sale but it has NOT been rebuilt. Here are correct pic for WW. Can send more pics via email.

Studebaker Dictator sixes, 1934 A and 1935 1A, Master Catalog of Chassis and Body Parts , First edition, December 1st, 1934. Cover and back shows wear, pages a very good. Make reasonable offer.

Rebuilt by Daytona Carburetor and ready to install. Never installed. Make reasonable offer.

This is a 90% finshed 35 Dictator being sold as I can not finish the restoration. Details on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/1935-Studebaker-Dictator-/272843090777?hash=item3f86b72b59:g:SdUAAOSwNJ9Ztq94&vxp=mtr

Rare factory wooden wheel that fits 2000C-CS, 1600,1800,2000, 2000tii, and Baur 2002. Wheel is in good condition but should have the wood rim refinished as the original varnish is checked. 15 3/4 dia. Price is $675 plus shipping.

LES LESTON WOODEN STEERING WHEEL. Very good condition. 15 inch, 6 bolt style. Comes with hub that fits late 60's MGB. Appears to be 36 spline x 5/8. Wheel will fit most British cars with proper hub. price is $350 plus shipping Call Jim 804 436-4166

To make a long story short, this car is offered up for sale with about 80-90% completed in a 4 year plus effort. At first it was to be a hot rod, then decided to go original driver class for a collection of post war cars. It has many hard to find parts, (some NOS) most of an original interior, painted, front grill and radiator restored, shocks rebuilt by Apple, side mount hardware, gauge rebuild. Will include extra engine/tranny and rare radiator surround from collector estate. If interested, call 804-776 6215 for full details and pictures that could help if interested in making offer. Ken, Deltaville, Va

Question concerns reinstalling driver side window: in process of re-assembling 1935 4 door Dictator. Problem is the driver glass will not mesh with window regulator, no problem with other three doors but so far on the driver side door can get only one "roller" to mesh properly with the door regulator. Cat whiskers are installed, should I try it with out cat whiskers being installed and if so who do you lower the window sufficiently to screw all of the cat whisker screws into the door frame? PS anybody want to but a 90% restored 35? (joking). Ken, Deltaville Va

Does anybody install the diode as part of their generator business? I'd like to convert to diode but have in inside the proper looking cut which may be sent to who ever, if they exist . The guy who has taken care of my old car generators is going of of business at the end of the month. Ken

Thanks, appreciate your help, am having computer trouble so not sure this will get to you. First I do have a number (hundreds) of pictures of a 35-36 model Dicators that I used help in restoration. Your friend will find it to be real character building experience especially with a Canadian built car as parts can be different. The car I have was basically stripped of but the Bondo filled body, no interior at all, no top, and had many parts that were either missing and or not suited to/for restoration. Some of those parts do not exist and in one case had trunk latches machined. Tell him to be careful if he removes the headlight lens and not break the lens or the three clips that hold the lens frame in place. Finding the correct interior is also a challenge, currently talking with Loga but their experience starts with the 36 model. You might want to contact Bob Johnstone on the Studebaker form as many of the photos came from his web site. Be careful re attachment of rear shock, as some 35 models require an adapter plate that if not used, will not allow the approximate straight 90 degree shock arm to link. That adapter is not available and had two machined, can send spec if needed. Proper shock arn alignment is important. Also be sure to see the reply above about cut out switch, all I really need to to make sure a cut does not overcharge. Let me know if you get this, my son is looking for a new computer for us. Ken, Deltaville Va

Thanks, you have essentially hit dead on the problem I'm having; it's finding the "old mechanic" who knows "electricity" vs what the computer tell him to replace a broken item. Most of those guys are gone thanks to electronic imports. In fact the old guy who overhauled my generator is in the process of going out of business by the end of the month. Most others are already gone. This appears to be a fairly simple issue. This is minimum electrical demand, no AC, no PS, no radio, and the lights may never be turn on, this leaves only gauges and ignition demand. but i do not want to have an burn up the battery or have an electrical fire. Ken

Recently had 1935 generator repaired but re-builder said cut out was bad and he did not have one, generator was otherwise OK. It's an Autolite GCM4802A-4. Where can I get a cut out for this generator? Ken, Deltaville, Va added: It's a 1935 Studebaker Dictator 4 door model, but it has a 1936 Studebaker replacement 6 cy engine. I'm told the generator is from 1937. Ken

Had my 1935 35 Dictator generator checked out by a re-builder. It is OK but the cut out is not working, his cut out replacement, would not work on the generator. Generator is GCM4802A-4. Any idea where I can order on? Ken, Deltaville Va

Did the same thing in restoration of 35 Dictator; motor mounts are from Shrock 814 672 5544. I'm sure you will find re-installation of radiator is real character builder. Ken, Deltaville, Va

Recently completed near frame off on 35 Dictator that involved removing engine/tranny and radiator. To remove radiator the front two fenders came off including the grill surround and grill, the combination is quite heavy. In your picture you show the three bolts (maybe 5/16 or 3/8 inch) that hold the radiator in place on each side, two of those bolts were accessible, the third one was not until fender was removed. In that picture there is support rod with a cone shape terminal; inside cone is a large bolt (maybe 1/2 inch) that can be access only from inside the right and left front fender. It is a nightmare to get out and even worse to put back end, so get some else to do it, if you can. The radiator did not need to be re-cored, but it still cost about $300. Ironically, removing the front fenders was a piece of cake, compared to the radiator and when I restore a car the I prefer to avoid doing something a second time. So at least have the radiator professionally checked out. In my case, repair shops in a reasonable distance, just laugh when you asked them to look at a Studebaker , especially one this old, so good luck in finding someone. Ken, Deltaville, Va

weatherstrip glue

Sent them the same picture as posted above (that's why the red marks were on the body, in an attempt to show where to relocate the arm). They were unaware of this issue but would relocate arm to what ever position was needed. However they pointed out that the body must be level and that the arm to link must be at 90 degrees or as close as possible; thus relocating the arm, with the body connected directly to the frame, will not allow 90 degree requirement. In addition it does not directly align with the ball connection on the axle. Apple has been very accommodating. What is needed is the adapter show in #3 above. Thanks for input, Ken

Tried to install on other side. The holes in the body of the shock are off-set thus it can not be installed on other side. The shop manual lists two different shocks for 35, perhaps you have another shock. Headhight lens is different depending on where car was built maybe shocks are also. Thanks for input, Ken

What modern day fluids are recommended for: engine oil, tranny, differential, and cooling? Shop manual is somewhat dated; as to engine oil, VR-1 sounds reasonable as it is used in my other cars. Assumption is synthetics are out. Ken, Deltaville, Va Thanks to all , Ken

Thanks, I would rebuild it myself if I could find a few more good pieces. The base if good but the problem is, the tiny ball inside the connector is missing on at two of mine. Ken

Tried to install the shocks on the 1935 4 door Dictator - front went on fine- back did not. Called Apple Hydraulics and they asked if the link was too short as it is 4 inch short of meeting the ball attached to he bottom of the spring. In any case they would relocate the arm to what ever position was necessary but it has to be at 90 degrees to the link. In its present position, the arm is in the lower most position, it will only go up, not down, as seen in the photo and it is 4 inches short of meeting the lower ball. Is there a longer link? Can anyone get a picture of how the shocks are properly mounted? Ken Kidwell, Deltaville, Va