1967 Riviera - Separate rear Diff from Drive shaft

[Guest taongisurvivor]

Attempting to remove the rear positraction differential from a 1967 Riviera GS.  I have it almost on the ground, but the drive shaft does not want to separate from the differential hub.  The four bolts have been removed between the differential hub and the drive shaft, but it does not want to come apart.  There is a center nut that appears to hold the differential hub onto the body, but I see no way to get to it to remove without complete removal of the universal joint.  What's going on here??  Do I just need to keep wiggling it back and forth until it comes apart????

 

[1965rivgs]

Attempting to remove the rear positraction differential from a 1967 Riviera GS.  I have it almost on the ground, but the drive shaft does not want to separate from the differential hub.  The four bolts have been removed between the differential hub and the drive shaft, but it does not want to come apart.  There is a center nut that appears to hold the differential hub onto the body, but I see no way to get to it to remove without complete removal of the universal joint.  What's going on here??  Do I just need to keep wiggling it back and forth until it comes apart????

Yes, the driveshaft yoke is a slight press fit over the diff yoke. There are holes which you can place a stout punch/hammer thru to try to work the two parts apart. Sometimes they are rather stubborn but they will come apart. Persistence and a good size hammer will prevail.

  Tom

[68RIVGS]

. . . what Tom sez, may take a little persuasion !

[Guest taongisurvivor]

Tomorrow Thor will wield his mighty hammer!!!  Liberal amounts of penetrating oil have been applied and will sit overnight to facilitate the separation.  I will keep you guys posted on the progress. 

[1965rivgs]

If you currently have a smooth operating driveline it might be a good idea to mark the yokes before disassembly so you can reassemble in the same position.

  Tom

[Guest taongisurvivor]

_{Almost boring to remove.  I literally tapped it a few times and noticed a small gap between the driveshaft and the differential yoke.  I wedged a screwdriver in the gap and pried a few times and it separated cleanly.  All hardware now removed and ready for cleaning.  Thanks all.}

[68RIVGS]

Did you remember to mark it, as Tom suggested, so it goes back together the same way ?

[Guest taongisurvivor]

Absolutely!  Located a local business owner who makes house calls and uses powdered glass as the blast media.  He will come over Tuesday and blast the coil springs, rear frame, and differential for $300.  It's worth it to me to get this done so I can get her put back together so I can go try to figure out how to remove the driver's door panel.  I can't open the door either from the outside or inside, and there feels little resistance using the door handles.  Therefore, I believe the linkage has become disconnected.  So I need to remove the panel to get to the internals, but I can't get the panel off because the door is closed, and I can't open the door because the panel is preventing me from accessing the internals.  The panel is in EXCELLENT condition and I don't want to bugger it up.  Called 5 different locksmiths and no one is interested.  I've got to figure this one out and I am running out of time.

[1965rivgs]

Either look down into the opposite door with a powerful flashlight, glass up or down, or pull the door panel, to determine how the linkage operates and then fashion a simple tool to use on the offending door. Sometimes a coat hanger, a hack saw blade with a notch ground into it, etc...just went thru this on an `85 Riviera. I found the linkage/arm which the push button operates directly was not coming to a fully released position, therefore holding the latch assembly in a neutral position rendering the other control mechanisms ineffective. I hooked the arm to pull it into a fully released position, opened the door and doused the offending latch mechanism with plenty of penetrating oil and then white lithium. Took about 15 minutes, typical malady which results from a car which is not exercised frequently,

  Tom

[68RIVGS]

It may not be disconnected, but the unlatching mechanism inside the door latch may be stuck, corroded, broken or seized.

Maybe try a liberal amount of spray lube like WD40, or a penetrating oil - let it soak for a while, then see if you can get any results?

[rocky5517]

On my 67 the spring that makes the interior door handle return  broke but the exterior handle still worked. I bought a used mechanism from Darwin Falk and my friend installed it. Note driver and pass side are different. If I remember, the assemblies are interchangeable with some Eldorados and Toronados.

 One of the names it goes by is "regulator assembly, door window", "window regulator, manual", or window regulator, electric", as per page 6-23 of the '67 "body by Fisher" service manual.  Darwin sold me the actual "door release", not the entire mechanism. Works fine.