Electric fuel pump for a 1927 Dodge

[BYmechanic]

I own a 1927 Dodge coupe. It is all original, 4 cylinder 6 volt system.

I am thinking of changing out the vacuum tank used to supply fuel to my carburetor to a 6 volt electric fuel pump.

There are two 6 volt fuel pumps that I can buy on line. One is built for 2.5 to 4 lbs pressure, the second one is built for 5 to 8 lbs pressure.

Which one would be more ideal to run on my Dodge.

Also would I be inheriting any problems if I do go ahead with this change out.

Thanks. Marv

[1936 D2]

The 2.5 to 4 psi would be plenty considering the vacuum tanks themselves are gravity feed to the carb I would think.

I recently bought one from an eBay supplier in Duluth MN for my '36 Dodge as a priming pump. Sounds like what you are looking at may be the same pump.

[Guest Dave Wilburn]

What is wrong with the vacuum tank?

I have a fuel pump on my '24, but it is plumbed into the line to the vacuum tank to fill it at the beginning of the season. I also use it to help fill the tank when driving up a long hill. I have a push button up under the dash I can reach from the driver's seat. Otherwise, the vacuum tank draws fuel through the pump and works fine.

[Paul Bohlig]

I put an electric fuel pump on my '28 Std 6. The first time without a regulator after the pump and before the carb. The pump overwhelmed the carb float. So went back to the vac tank which was intermittent. Several years later I put a regulator after the electric pump and set for 2 psi. If you look in the DBC club News on CD and John's 1 volume on Vic 6 I recall the gravity feed from the vac tank is about 1 psi. You need to see what works for you. Here in North Texas, Dallas, O'Reillys and NAPA have what you need. Imagine similar where you are.

So, gas tank to fuel filter to electric pump to manual regulator (no electric required) to carb. Dress up the seat on your carb float using tooth paste or silver polish and run in the seat using a pencil with an eraser with the float off and just the seat turning. Clean the cleaner off completely and see how it runs.

Always work outside and with a good fire extinguisher handy!

Paul

p.s. I finally got my vac tank to work and found the leak was as the 3/8" fuel inlet at top used for priming.

Whatever you do run the engine until the fuel has run through the carb to the point of causing engine to stop running. Either a switch in the electric pump or the manual valve at the bottom of the vac tank. Otherwise carb will gum up as the fuel evaporates.

[JB-ed]

I have NEVER found any electric fuel pump with any regulation that did not overwhelm the carburetor float and run the engine rich under all conditions. Remember it's merely gravity feed from the vacuum tank to the carburetor float bowl. I removed all electric fuel pumps on all my cars and run with the vacuum tank as they were originally intended. THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WRONG WITH A WELL RESTORED VACUUM TANK. These tanks were used for years on all cars, high end Packards, Cadillacs, Locomobiles and so forth without any problems. Why do people insist on re-engineering perfectly running and designed engine fuel systems? Restore your vacuum tank and let your poor car run as it was originally designed (and save the trouble and expense of learning this the hard way.)