Oil pn gasket placement?

[Beltfed]

Getting ready to put gaskets on oil pan. Gasket kit contains four gaskets. I only see three on the pan. The two long black ones for the sides plus one that's in front where the crank is. What's the other for? The two short ones are made from cork and a white road type. BTW, which of the short ones go in front (crank) ? Thanks

[peecher]

the cork fits in the groove in the rear main bearing cap. The half-round section at the rear of the pan will seal against it. The white rope-like seal fits into the recess at the front of the oil pan. A round bar will be useful in forming it when pressing it in.

Edited August 28, 2013 by peecher (see edit history)

[Mssr. Bwatoe]

The trick is in the rear gasket , you must secure it, mold it to stay on the ridge, so that when the pan addresses the block, it stays in place, sealing

the distance from the outline of the pan, to the bridge over the rear main.. i would silicone or shellac it to the pan night before, i even stuck screws

in the holes to align it..same goes for cork on rear main bridge..then dab sealer at those spots where gaskets meet..be careful raising the pan..

(dont forget the oil bobber) stick it in and secure it up, to reduce interference as you raise pan up..

always soak the white rope seal in motor oil night before..

[Beltfed]

I'll do as you guys said. Another question...I cleaned the oil pan inside and out. I found about 3/16" of goo in the bottom of the pan. I noticed that instead of jet black it had a slightly "silver" look to it. I believe it is metal fines from wear and tear on the internals. Should I be concerned? I do not want to tear this beast down!

Thanks

[peecher]

Suspect that "silvery" look may be from water absorbsion? I think this happens when the engine is only run for short periods and sits idle for extended periods. Might check to see if there's any head gasket leaks. A super clean spark plug might indicate water leakage.

[Mssr. Bwatoe]

Wait a minute..........why did you pull the pan?? What shape is this engine in?? Metalic powder is from bearings period sludge is from poor crankcase breathing, and is typical of this engine, white mucas is from coolant mixing, or condensation or both... problem is that it plugs oil pickup, slowly starves oil flow and wears engine...Stop right now and get a HIGH VOLUME PUMP...these engines have a lot of plumbing to fill and the little ford pump is not enough to provide it, and produce any pressure..mark my words..you

will see...the larger flow pump helps..I bought one from Al Whelihan a zephyr guy, years ago..if you are used to normal cars, you will freak when you stop at a light and see hot pressure at zero!! Yes it will continue to run but....... or spend 5 grand and rebuild it , and still install high vol pump..

i use 15-40 rotella or 15-50 full synthetic or 20-50 ..oil!

Edited August 29, 2013 by Mssr. Bwatoe (see edit history)

[Beltfed]

The oil float was sunk. After removing it I found it was badly dented to the point there was several holes in it. It looks like it tried to mess with the crank counter weights and lost. The rod was also bent.

[Guest 65Starfire]

Is the high volume pump the Melling M-15?

[peecher]

Yes, the high volumn oil pump is the Melling-15. Known as the Flathead Ford racing pump. The so called standard replacement Ford pump is the Melling-19 and I believe it's about on par with the regular post-war V12 oil pump.

[Beltfed]

I read up on the m-15 pump before ordering one. The Ford guys say it will not fit until you hammer out the bottom of the oil pan. Is that true for the v12 motor?

thanks