'40 Rear Axle Removal

[Ron K.]

I have finally started the removal of the rear axle of my '40 Cabriolet so that it can go to John Connelly for repair and revitalization. Can I remove the drive shaft tube from the transmission without removing the floorboard plate above it? I assume from looking at the drawings that once it and the spring are all unbolted, that the whole rear axle assembly will just slide aft from the transmission, is that correct? There is not some type of retainer on the drive shaft spline attaching it to the transmission is there?

Ron

[peecher]

Ron, there is no retainer holding the splines of the drive shaft to the U-joint. The Ball cap is the only thing that needs to be removed in order to slide the rear axle assembly free from the transmission.

[Ron K.]

That is what I thought looking at the depiction in the parts manual. Did you have to remove the floor board access plate to disconnect and reinstall the drive shaft?

Ron

[peecher]

Ron, the Ford repair manual says to remove the floor pan. This is probably because you will have good access to the ball cap. Even if you're able to remove the ball cap from beneath it will be a lot easier to re-install the torque tube/propellor shaft in the U-joint with access from above. Only done this a few times but removing the floor pan made it easier for me.

[Ron K.]

Thank you Sir, I will do it.

Ron

[Mssr. Bwatoe]

HERE IS THE TRICK RON, WITH SAFETY BEING THE KEY CONCERN, REAR SPRING IS PACKED WITH KILLER

PUNCH, I HAVE USED PORTA POWER HYDRAULIC DEVICE OR THIS NIFTY EARLY FORD KR WILSON OR KD TOOL.

[Ron K.]

Thank you Sir, I do have a porta-power and have been warned to be very careful of that spring, I have never used a porta-power before so this will be a new experience. I noticed that you took out the spring, I was told that it is easier to just leave the spring attached to the car and drop the rear axle. I was going to disconnect the drive shaft from the transmission but I noticed that you disconnected it from the differential, recommendations? I sure appreciate you sharing your experience and pictures.

Ron

[Mssr. Bwatoe]

the spring sits too low to clear the axle, unless you jack car way way up, I wasnt going to remove the spring but, 4 nuts and it was out of

my way, and I could move it away from my fragile body. The driveshaft is locked into the axle by a pin that keeps it from sliding apart..you pull the

axle back, driveshaft slides out to remove pin, you then have to reassemble and re insert shaft, with attached universal joint into trans..hard to do..

I will end up pulling floor pan to do this ..so whenever you want..It is a large awkward critter to pull axle and shaft angle and height all the key issues..

I did this in my suburban garage, next to family station wagon and bikes, and kids. Safety is again key..as I know its gonna sit like this for at least a month.

25 years ago I changed clutch by jacking way way up..disconnecting things and rolled rear out from underneath tires and all..(I cant see how but I did)

I had hoped Mr Peecher and others would chime in..I also have the benefit that this car has been apart several times in past 30 years, inside stored etc.

[Ron K.]

Success thanks to your advice. Pulling the floor pan is necessary, I detached the spring from the rear axle with the porta-power spreading it and adjusting the floor jack and auto lift, backed the axle out in one piece. It is now being "bullet proofed" by expert John Connelly, what a great guy with a fantastic machine shop, he is the "go to" guy for Columbias. He assured me that he has the correct original '40 controls for my Columbia to replace the post war controls including the electrical switch that Reese installed in '53. Lesson learned, don't drive Tucson - Temecula, CA - Tucson in one day again.