V-12 distributor timing on engine experiment

[Beltfed]

I have been in touch with a retired master mechanic/automotive shop teacher who's father is also a retired mechanic with lots of V-12 experience. They think timing the V-12 distributor is possible on the car. He plans to use a degree wheel on the crank with a dial indicator in #1 spark plug hole to find the correct timing points and mark them on the engine. This will be a one time thing as the marks will be permanent. He needs the radiator pulled along with the fan. This is already done as I am doing other work in that area. He ask that I pull the crank pulley bolt off so an adapter can be made for the degree wheel.

Has anyone ever attempted this and will it work or not? Would anyone been interested in seeing pics and a write up of the procedure, if it does work?

Edit: Can someone tell me if the long woodruff key at the balancer/pulley hub and crank nose extends into the hub to 'key' it to the crank. I can see it on the engine drawings but not clearly. If it does then I would think the outside edge of the harmonic balancer would the place to put my timing marks.

Edited July 15, 2013 by Beltfed (see edit history)

[38ShortopConv.]

Yes the pulley/ballancer/ fan hub are keyed to the crankshaft, all one unit. The balancer rings will slip around the hub during road use , they are spring loaded with a clutch plate between them to iron out vibrations. You can put the timing mark on the ballancer ring but the ring itself will shift with use so you need to have a positioning mark as well to shift the ring back to so it is in the right position to use the timing light on the timing mark. You can turn the ring back by hand, it is difficult to reach and hard to see down there. You will need two timing marks and 2 pointers actually , one for each bank of cylinders. #1 cyl. is front left [sitting in car] #2 is front right, there are 2 six cyl. ignition systems in the V12 dist. The timing plate on the side sets the timing, remove the plate and the screw underneath syncronises the two banks. you need to use left and right cyl. timing marks a couple of firing strokes appart so the timing marks dont overlap in the timing light when running. It a bit of a hazardous area down there when adjusting with motor running. This system has been tried over the years and explained in last centurys LZ. MAG. You may be able to put the timing marks on the fan blades and use cyl. to suit spacing of blades and number them. You can use the bench unit to set these distributors up and they work out just as good if not better.

[larry butcher]

I have been in touch with a retired master mechanic/automotive shop teacher who's father is also a retired mechanic with lots of V-12 experience. They think timing the V-12 distributor is possible on the car. He plans to use a degree wheel on the crank with a dial indicator in #1 spark plug hole to find the correct timing points and mark them on the engine. This will be a one time thing as the marks will be permanent. He needs the radiator pulled along with the fan. This is already done as I am doing other work in that area. He ask that I pull the crank pulley bolt off so an adapter can be made for the degree wheel.

Has anyone ever attempted this and will it work or not? Would anyone been interested in seeing pics and a write up of the procedure, if it does work?

Edit: Can someone tell me if the long woodruff key at the balancer/pulley hub and crank nose extends into the hub to 'key' it to the crank. I can see it on the engine drawings but not clearly. If it does then I would think the outside edge of the harmonic balancer would the place to put my timing marks.

Beltfed- order back issue of 'The Way of The Zephyr" Vol.27 #5 , Sept-Oct 1994. Jake Fleming wrote a great article on bench top setting of the H series V12 distributor, using a volt meter and a home made degree wheel. I followed his instructions and both '38 and '48 V12s are running good. You can also send him you dist. w/ coil and he will set it up.

[Beltfed]

Larry and 38ShortopConv,

Thanks for the good information. I am doing as you suggested Larry, and getting that issue of "The Way of the Zephyr" , if it's still around. I joined the club a month or more ago but have yet to receive anything, but I'm told that the latest issue should be in my mailbox any day.

BTW Larry, I've installed the bottom door gaskets which I'm pretty sure are just like yours. Much better fit up and doors close nicely now.

[Guest Jim Zephyr]

I don't have that article in front of me, but I think you want to use number 1 on the left bank and number 4 on the right bank which is the next firing cylinder after number 1. Jake is amazing in his grasp of all the ins and outs of this subject -

[Beltfed]

I pulled the hub/balancer off today to see if my home made puller worked. Works better than I thought it would. Took a close look at this thing and don't see why the timing marks can't be put on the edge. Even got the exploded drawings out and looked at them. The inside flywheel half doesn't look like it can move. Even the outer half can't move much if any as there are six pins coupling the two flywheel half's together. If one just marks the inside flywheel half, I'm thinking it'll work. I ordered the #27 issue of the mag and will wait to read it to see if there is a better way.

On to media blasting the hub to start the engine color changeover from blue to Ford green. Thanks