Disassembled Taillight: Considering Experimenting

[Guest MercWagn]

I recently replaced my tail lamp assembly with a much nicer piece. Unfortunately, the replacement assembly gets water/condensation in it, whereas my old and ugly taillight was nicely sealed--go figure! So, yesterday I disassembled my old taillight just to see how it came apart, that way I can go into the nice taillight with knowledge of how it is assembled.

For those considering disassembling their taillight, I would highly recommend placing the lamp assembly inside a car with all the windows rolled up on a hot and sunny day, perhaps in your Reatta, given that with all the glass surface area it is a virtual greenhouse. I would let it sit inside a hot car for a while, that way the butyl sealant/caulk will be far more pliable and will separate much more easily.

As for my experiment, I am considering making an LED taillight assembly, utilizing 12v LED "rope" that could be easily mounted within a notched reflector, thereby providing a uniform mount and appearance (perhaps 4 strings, with 2 strips for brakes). I would use this for the running lights, with shorter, fixed length rigid 12v LED strips for the brake lamps. All of this would then be reassembled and wired to the existing harness. Additionally, I would tint the clear lens of the taillamp so as to cloak the imperfections and fog. The tint would probably be a nice touch, particularly since the LEDs are quite bright. A completely darkened taillamp with nice, new BUICK letters installed would be gorgeous on a black Reatta.

Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions regarding type of LEDs to use, and/or thoughts on what product to use for tint. A major issue would be using LEDs that are reliable, since I wouldn't want to reopen the assembly once it is sealed (unless I figure out a way to adequately seal it while providing for ease of disassembly). Also, an effective tint with longevity as well as the ability to cover and hide imperfections would be important.

This is still on the drawing board--not sure how practical this may be.

It would be nice to find a way to utilize and revitalize all those old taillights that are beyond what a simple polishing would do, especially since they are getting harder to come by. The taillamp is such a major part of the Reatta's aesthetic appeal package (in my opinion), it is important to have a nice taillight in order to make the car as presentable as possible.

Edited June 2, 2013 by MercWagn
Grammar (see edit history)

[Guest Corvanti]

first thoughts:

perhaps tint the inside (given that you plan to seal out moisture). less "weathering".

don't forget about turn signals.

when i replaced most of the exterior lighting on my '99 Corvette a few years ago with led's, i had to put some resistors in the turn signal light wiring to have them flash at a normal speed. it's been around 4+ years ago, so maybe that's not necessary anymore???

[KDirk]

I just don't see any practical way to do LED conversion on this tail lamp setup. I have thought at length about it, believe me. As you have observed, access to strip/rope type LED lighting for maintenance or replacement would be problematic as they would be sealed into the taillamp housing. Bayonet based LED replacement lamps would work, but will "hot spot" too much as the light dispersion characteristics are much more tightly focused than conventional light bulbs.

As Corvanti has pointed out, either solution above would require high-wattage sand-block resistors as inline dummy loads to present the flasher with the anticipated loading, or it will go into fast-blink mode (thinking a bub or blubs has burned out due to the reduced current consumption).

Tinting is another issue, police in some locales can be very touchy about this. May also get flagged on a safety inspection if it is noticeable. A very mild grey tint might go unnoticed, but a blackout (or nearly so) treatment that the guys with tricked out imports seem so fond of will get you hassled at some point, guaranteed. There is also red tinting available, this might escape detection as the whole thing is red anyway, given the turn signals in the rear are not amber.

Whatever you do, make sure it is a high quality tint (spray is probably better than film) and have it done professionally for consistent results.

Lately I have been thinking about non-stock tail lamp treatments that would be fairly heavy modifications. One idea that I had was to make a fiberglass shell in the shape of the exiting tail lamp outer lens that would be notched with two thin lines (1/4" to 3/8" wide) horizontally above and below the "BUICK" lettering. This could be done with LED's and custom cut and polished lexan slotted into the fiberglass shell. The shell would be painted body color, so that when the running, brake or turn signals were on you would see two continuous red strips across the back of the car. Could even use stock letter inlays, or for an update, use the newer style Buick block letters seen on the Enclave, for example.

Clearly, this would be a ton of work and would be completely custom (so no judging as stock category at a show). It would also be a major change to the appearance at the rear, perhaps more than most would find palatable. It would however eliminate the problematic plastic lens that is giving us all fits now due to age and exposure. Just an idea I had, no real serious thought of doing this as I like the stock look just fine. Would be an eye catcher though, in the same vein as the new Dodge Dart tail lamp design with its thin red outline (which is all LED of course).

KDirk

[Guest MercWagn]

I think it would be possible to make the rope/strip LEDs in the taillight accessible, perhaps by modifying the entire inner, silver reflector piece. If a piece of plastic stock, bent to conform to the necessary shape with the silver reflector, and then modified to accept it from behind using a foam tape type gasket material, an acceptable solution may be arrived at. I do think that this can be accomplished, though more serious thought will be required. As KDirk correctly stated, LED replacement bulbs are not a satisfactory replacement in my opinion.

The tint seems to be the biggest issue. Perhaps I should familiarize myself with both DOT specifications and regulations, as well as those here in Ohio. We need a solution to the appearance problem of the taillight. My old light does not just have the fogging issue, but has what appears to be a type of crazing within the clear plastic which can not be felt on the surface. I think some chemical contaminant must have attacked it. This means that a tint would need to be dark enough to mask it, though there is some concern that LEDs may actually bring it out.

Personally, I would shy away from any tail lamp that would give a Trofeo look to the Reatta, but it may be far more attractive than I envision. Unfortunately, as these cars age, solutions to this problem will likely become nonexistent. And if anyone ever reproduced the part, they would want a chest of gold for it. So it seems that we need to harness our collective creativity to address this.

I will continue to think about this. Now I need to find a safe, out of the way place to store the lamp assembly.

[KDirk]

A reproduction would be prohibitive, no doubt. Injection molding like this is hugely expensive, and not enough market to support to initial investment I'm afraid. there are a large number of Reattae surviving as of now. However, the numbers are dwindling and the cars in overall condition worthy of the cost of a repro tail lamp is a much smaller percentage of the total.

I hesitate to say this openly but I have two NOS outer lenses I have acquired over the past couple of years. I spent a chest of gold, or at least the cost of about one ounce of the shiny stuff at current prices to get them. One is going to go on my 88 sometime soon along with a pair of NOS reflectors as soon as I have time to tear apart and reassemble a tail lamp assembly. The other will stay in storage for the time being, as I fully expect I will need it later. I also have a couple of used, and pretty badly beat tail lamp assemblies, complete. Both of these have the crazing Merc described, and so are never going to be 100% satisfactory in appearance no matter how much they shine up.

KDirk

[Guest Furman83]

I would like to disassemble my rear lens as the inside is very dusty, Big fear is separating the assembly. Does the "Heat" up inside of vehicle soften up the compound so the clear lens comes off ez? Is replacement compound ez to obtain and ez to reapply?

[KDirk]

Heating up the assembly really good (sunlight, not with a heat gun!) will make it easier to get apart, but that is relative. This needs to be done VERY slowly and patiently starting from one end and working your way around it with a long pry tool that will not mar the plastic as you pry against it. Suggest maybe wrapping the shaft of the pry tool with masking tape or heat-shrink tubing perhaps.

Before you do anything, carefully remove both the lower reflectors (these are easy to break while handling the tail lamp assembly, so save yourself the aggravation - I've been there so speak from experience) and the close-out baffles (curved black rubber pieces that trim out the ends of the outer lens and the reflectors) being careful to to break the plastic lens where the rubbers baffles trims snap in place.

I'm actually getting ready to do a tail lamp assembly here for my latest car, and will get some pictures to post of the process. Also, the butyl rubber "caulk" can be bought in strips (about 12" long on wax paper in a box) or in a roll. The latter is made by 3M, and comes on two diameters. I think the smaller size is the better bet, using the larger one makes the lens more difficult to re-seat. Most good auto parts stores should stock at least one type, if not both.

KDirk

[Guest Corvanti]

if the 3M "caulk" Kevin is talking about is the one that stays soft - known as "monkey poo" by old farts:rolleyes:, it is "3M Strip-calk". part#051135-08578. i picked some up around 4 years ago when i was replacing the caulk on a firewall. i think i picked mine up off of e-bay, but i'd think a napa or carquest type flaps would have it. i just pulled the caulk box out of storage and it's still soft - the box is still about 1/2 full of "poo"...

if it's not what K was talking about, i think it would still work well. keep the moisture out and certainly easier to pull apart than a silicone based caulk if you need to go in there again. taking it apart, i'd be more concerned with the fragile condition of the plastic lens...

[KDirk]

That is, in fact, the very stuff I am speaking of. Please, do NOT use silicone caulk to re-seal the unit on reassembly.

KDirk

[Guest Furman83]

Thanks, you all have been very helpful!! I will attempt this this weekend. will let all

know how it goes.

[Guest MercWagn]

I'm not sure of today's pricing on a box of 3m caulk strip , but the 3m ribbon weld roll (used to install windshields) is the same product and comes in 15 ft. rolls. 1/4 inch is p/n 08610 and only costs around $10. Historically, this is usually cheaper than the caulk strips and lasts for many years. It is a nice product to have around because it has many uses.

[DAVES89]

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