Roller Chain

[Guest Mochet]

My '13 Metz is a dual chain drive, and I'd like to get a new roller chain (#60). There are several types of chain available, including stainless steel, permanently lubricated, and extra strength. Would just a regular strength ("ANSI Roller Chain" at McMaster) chain be satisfactory?

Phil

[Steve Braverman]

The standard stuff is probably better than what they had 100 years ago.

[Rusty_OToole]

You don't need stainless or permanently lubricated if it is in an oil bath case like other timing chains.

Any good brand of high speed chain will do. There is also a low speed chain with split rollers, it will not stand up in your application.

As to whether today's chain is better than 100 years ago I don't know. I do know that Japanese motorcycle chain in the 70s was not as good as English Reynolds chain from the 30s 40s and 50s.

To insure the connecting link does not come off have the closed end of the clip pointing in the direction of travel. For extra security put a square of tin behind the clip and fold the ends over the clip. An old trick taught me by a motorcycle mechanic who learned it in the 20s.

[JV Puleo]

They are drive chains to the rear wheels... not timing chain. I'd be tempted by the permanently lubricated stuff as chain lubrication was always a major shortcoming of chain drive cars. I've also read of running a line from the crank case breather to just above the sprockets to "mist" the chain with oil.

The period directions I've read suggest pulling the chains regularly and soaking them in a mixture of tallow and wax, heated to a liquid state in a double boiler - then hanging them to dry. This is similar to the idea of the permanently lubricated chain though there was nothing permanent about it must have been a messy job in both doing it and using them.