Sealing Float - fuel tank sender unit

[Guest namvetschrysler]

It's not a new float but i suspect it needs sealing, any advice on what to use would be most helpful

Thanks

[Guest Jim_Edwards]

Given the sensitivity required of fuel floats I would think adding even a minute amount of weight to one would not be the best of ideas even with a fuel resistant sealant. You didn't mention what vehicle you are dealing with, but the better idea would be to buy a backup if and when available if you are that paranoid about future float failure.

[Guest Al Brass]

I've used a thin coat of fuel tank sealer with good effect.

Regards

Al

[nickelroadster]

Are you talking about a brass float or a cork float? I suspect that you are talking about a cork float if you are talking about sealing it. I would be careful with gas tank sealer as some of them will not adhere to the cork ( For example Bill Hirsch). Some sealers are probably ok. You can use a very thin super glue or if you are looking for the very lightest substance, use fuel proof model airplane butrayte dope which would be available from a hobby shop that caters to model airplane people.

[Guest Bob Call]

Nickleroadster is right about airplane dope. Most model airplanes are now finished with Monokote, a polymer film, instead of dope (paint). There is a clear product called fuel proofer or fuel proof which is the top coat over the dope. Model nitromethane fuel will dissolve the dope so it is finished with the fuel proofer to protect the paint job. I would imagine that fuel proofer would be impervious to modern gasohol.

[Guest namvetschrysler]

Thank you all for your input, you have been most helpful.

regards

[Rusty_OToole]

Epoxy is fuel proof and may be easier to get. The weight of the float is not critical as long as it floats in gas.

If the original shellac coating is washed off by alcohol or gasohol, let the float sit in a warm place for a few days to dry out then recoat.

Of course this is for cork floats. Brass floats do not need to be coated.