R.White Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 (edited) The inner flange has rusted away. Has anyone got a good casting like this which I can build up with new parts. This is from a 6 volt 2 unit car and bolts onto the distributor housing, thus making it difficult to replace with any other kind of pump. Anyone with a NOS pump same as this can expect a really good deal from me!See my previous water pump posts . Thankyou,Ray. Edited November 14, 2011 by R.White (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 Hi Ray,I suspect it isn't as bad as it looks if I assume it operates similar to the '25 pump I rebuilt. In the attached photo, the bronze impeller is shown with the inlet side facing the viewer. When assembled, this side of the impeller faces the inlet side of the pump (the part sitting behind the impeller in the picture). Water flows into the doughnut-shaped cavity from the lower radiator elbow, it enters the impeller and is thrown outward (a centrifugal-type of pump) by the spinning impeller, gaining pressure in the process. In order to get adequate pumping, the clearance between the impeller and pump body should be a minimum. In other words, you don't want the higher pressure water to be able to leak backwards into the low pressure side of the pump. Excess clearance will mean the pump won't move the designer's intended volume of water. The question is how will the corroded edges of the flange on your pump effect the flow rate of the pump? Without seeing what the impeller on yours looks like, and how it fits up in this flange area, I would guess that some repair would be worthwhile. Since there must be some clearance (we don't want the impeller to rub on the pump body), I think some JB Weld-type of epoxy would do the trick provided the bonding surfaces are cleaned well and the epoxy is rater for at least 250 deg F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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