CTX-SLPR Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Howdy,Well after a weekend thrash to get the Turbo6 into the Riv, I ran into a huge problem last night. Hole in the oil cooler! Nothing a bit of scavenging the parts bin and other plumbing then a quick trip to Ace didn't solve. Filled the oil pan with Rotella T1 30W by pumping the whole 6qts through the engine using my remote oiler.It was raining by now so I was just looking forward to pushing it back into the garage and shutting the door. Tried the old heave-ho and she just bounced on the suspension. Tried pushing against the bumper of my truck parked 4ft behind the car... same deal. Ok time to break out the big guns... the comealong! Hooked it to the crossmember and then put a piece of 1/8in angle iron against the door frame on the back door to the garage and pulling... no dice! At this point I got desperate, I put a thick moving blanket between the rear bumper and the front bumper of my truck and tried pushing. The Riv just squatted on the front suspension. Jacked the car up and the drivers front was really tight but would turn if you gripped tight and turned. The passengers front turned alright but was still dragging. The rear brakes however were locked solid! (Yes I checked the parking brake) I tried cracking the brake line at the Master since I'm replacing it soon anyway but no help. Ended up using the comealong to pull the car in with a jack under the diff.What could be causing this? It's been an off and on problem since I put the car on jack stands 3 yrs ago to work on the motor swap. Brakes stayed sealed and I've bled like 2Qts through the system to get the fluid clean. When they did work they were really really soft.Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 (edited) Sounds like you overadjusted the rears to deal with the soft pedal. If your problem was hydraulic, like an internally collapsed rubber brake line acting like a check valve or a master not opening the return port due to pushrod misadjustment and incomplete retraction, the wheels should have freed up when you cracked the bleeder...oh wait, you didnt try to relieve hydraulic pressure by cracking a bleeder, just the brake line at the front. Try cracking each rear wheel bleeder to see if you can isolate the problem to one wheel. Dont discount the possibility of a seized or lazy wheel cylinder. Otherwise, the problem is mechanical at the rear wheels.Tom Mooney Edited August 29, 2011 by 1965rivgs (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 75RivGS Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 When the brake shoes are mounted vice versa you'll get that same problem: check whether the smallest of the two is facing front (both sides) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mt65riv Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 ^^ I've made that mistake before. After checking all of the above, follow the line going to the rear axle to make sure it didn't get kinked. If it was OK, then you did another job and now it's not OK, something must have happened when you were doing the motor work.It's a fairly simple system, not many pieces. Just do basic trouble-shooting to fine the gremlin.Good luck!Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Mine did the same thing. Cracking the line at the master cylinder released the car enough to move it back to the garage for me. That is when I gave up on the stock master cylinder and booster and upgraded. No issues since, and didn't have the issue with the shoes. Mine were correct and still did this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTX-SLPR Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 Mine did the same thing. Cracking the line at the master cylinder released the car enough to move it back to the garage for me. That is when I gave up on the stock master cylinder and booster and upgraded. No issues since, and didn't have the issue with the shoes. Mine were correct and still did this.Steve,Did you change any of the brake hoses?I'm in the process of going to an Impala SS master and a hybrid front disc system using C10 HD rotors and Nissan R32 Skyline calipers. I was hoping to leave the rear alone since I don't have the money to upgrade and don't want to put the money into something that's not long term.I'll try backing off the star wheels sometime this week and be able to get them at least working well enough. I'm also thinking about cheap insurance of replacing the over axle line since I'm going to bleed the brakes anyway after swapping the fronts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Steve,Did you change any of the brake hoses?Yes, when I upgraded to later model MC and booster, I changed all the hoses. I had checked wheel cylinders and such earlier, but did replace hoses at this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTX-SLPR Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 It's a cheap hose at $7.95 from Rock Auto. Supposed to be shared with the 64-65 A-body so that helps. Like I said, cheap insurance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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