Guest jwin Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 (edited) Can someone show me what the tube that goes from the frame (behind the left headlight) to the airbox is supposed to look like? The piece in my car is cut from a shopvac. (I just noticed this after 2 years since it's buried under the windshield washer bottle and relay box) It seems to be interfering with the connectors at the headlight door module, and I would like to get it right.on another note, I just started having the CRT problem that is outlined under the heading "Radio Plays But CRT Does Not Light Up" on Padgett's repair section of Rettaowner.com. I tested both RAP relays (9V batt & multimeter), and they seem to be fine. No blown fuses apparent either. As, I have been having some hard starting issues lately (when it has been sitting for at least 4-5 hours: cranks fine, but takes two or three tries to turn over), I would assume that the case against the ignition switch is getting strong. What can I do to diagnose it? Edited May 14, 2011 by jwin (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mc_Reatta Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Check fuses for CPS #9, BCM #16, and Crank #10. (Go by name more than #)If all OK probably will be bad CRT. CPS and CRTC rarely fail.Hard start may just be fuel pump relay on firewall. If bad you need to crank until oil pressure builds up enough to turn oil light off before pump will run.Shop Vac tube would be close. If you want proper one contact Jim Finn. He can supply all of these parts if you need them as well as others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jwin Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 So the touch controls still work when the CRT goes bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mc_Reatta Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Yes, if you remember what the screens look like you should be able to do everything. Try it and see what happens.Touchscreen sits over the CRT screen but talks to the CRTC and on to the BCM. CRT is independent from it but also gets signal from the CRTC.Can be transferred to another CRT if you find one that lights up but has a bad touchscreen.Radio only screen and function means the CRT is running under RAP power, but it should still light up. That would be a good indication you have a blown fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jwin Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Yes, all touch controls function (from memory), but none of the screens light up. Thanks for the help! (even with the bad news) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mc_Reatta Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Unfortunately, the CRTs are dropping like flies. Most of the time they can be rebuilt so don't throw it away, but probably cheaper short term to find a working replacement. We need to keep repairable cores around so we have for the future when they are harder to find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jwin Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Dont' worry. I wouldn't think of ditching it. I've only had the Reatta fever for two years now, but my case is terminal. I posted a new thread about rebuild info. Chime in if you have any advice. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 88reattacoupe Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 dont forget your manual has all the screens pictured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 The air inlet tube should be replaced with the correct parts if at all possible. There is supposed to be a foam rubber adapter with a bell mouth in the radiator header and a gently tapered plastic tube that connects to the air box. I have flow tested the air box assembly and it flows the best with the correct parts (even though it looks restricted). For normal driving, it probably isn't a big deal, but for maximum flow in stock form, the correct parts work best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 The adapter with the bell mouth can be seen in the photo below. I hope it helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jwin Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 thanks for the help. i do have the bell mouth, it's just the tube that goes to the air box that i'm missinsg. hello... mr. finn... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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