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Refurbish vs. New Reproduction


DCE

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I would welcome all opinions on the following.

When restoring an antique vehicle is it better to refinish original items or purchase new reproduction items that may be available?

Examples:

re-chrome original windshield nuts or purchase new reproduction nuts.

rebuild existing wooden spoked wheels or have new wheels built.

Often the cost to restore is close to the same cost to purchase reproduction items.

Does one approach make the vehicle more or less valuable when the restoration is finished.

Thanks for the input.

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Guest 1930

There are alot of factors to be considered. Will the car be driven regularily or trailered to a show and trailered home ect. Depends on the item in question also, on my car when it came to chrome I chose to buy new repro items where they were available. If they are nicley done, and I wont have to worry about them eventually breaking while is use and I dont ever after to worry about them rusting again ( the plating these days sucks ) than why not . I saved some originals and put them away.

On wheels I would of course replace any bad spokes if I had any but there would be no benefit to completely replacing them that I can see unless there is a safety issue with the wheels you have such as heavy rust and pitting or so far out of round that again it would cost more to repair than have made new.

I try and just use my head and common sense when it comes to things but try and keep it as original as possible. Once a car is restored no matter how carefull you are and how much money you have to spend it will never be original again so on alot of things it is a matter of personal preferance.

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My theory is this:

(First of all - and most important - is to keep in mind that this is a "restoration" which should be for the purpose of historic accuracy, so those in the future looking at it can see what the car was like "in its day").

Ask yourself, "Is this car going to be a display piece for maximum accuracy and not necessarily driven? Or is this car going to be driven on a regular basis?" The answer will dictate your direction on the restoration.

If driven: SAFETY is a big issue. You may want to consider replacing bolts with non-stressed, non-stretched new bolts. Maybe remove any head markings to help make them 'look" older, but the idea is strength and safety. On the wood wheel question then, doing an accurate to style full rebuild with new wood would be safer when driving yet still look the same as original.

If displayed only: (sometimes referred to as a "trailer queen") then full accuracy to original is required. This type of restoration is the "100 point" car. Historic accuracy is everything. The accurate refurbishment of original parts is most important. Spend the extra money to find original bolts - redo the wood wheels that are already there to like new restoration. etc.

BUT BY ALL MEANS - DO NOT plan on driving this type of restoration! It is both not wise monetarily (because of all the cash thrown into the restoration initially) AND that it will probably not be safe to drive more than off the trailer and back in! [Consider tooling along at 55 MPH and a stressed bolt breaks or the wood spoke fractures! Bad day all around. But that car sure did look nice!] :eek:

Either way, putting in the EFFORT and/or the MONEY is important to the final out come and historic accuracy. Otherwise it is NOT a restoration.

With all this in mind, if the original parts can be found or are with the car, they should be safely rebuilt if possible. The only time I would consider a "new" part is if I have searched and searched and can't locate a safe original part, then I MAY consider buying a "new" part mainly if it is unseen (like brake internal rebuild parts) or if it is VERY accurately done (like a hood ornament cast from stainless steel with true accuracy to the original if there has been no luck after a long search for an original chromed diecast one).

Just my two cents worth.

Edited by 1936 D2
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I completely agree D2. For a driver, safety must be number 1. I also think improved reliability may merit a tilt toward reproduction if it isn't obvious that the component has been modernized. Temporary spares in case of break downs are also something to think about. For example a 'modern' coil (cylindrical type found in many cars up until maybe 10-15 years ago) can easily substitute for a bad original in a pinch. A few wires with alligator clips in case ignition switch goes bad, etc.

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