Guest Redwind89 Posted April 6, 2011 Share Posted April 6, 2011 so the other day I went and put my battery into my T-type and was going to start it for the first time since Nov.(damn winter was to long) Anyhow, I turned the key and got nothing. All the dash lights came on and I heard the fuel pump running but it was not turning over. I was thinking it is a bad starter, but my dad said it could be something else. So today I was going to check to see if I have a problem with the battery cables, by turning on the headlights and turning the key again, checking all the fuseable links in the cables but today nothing works, no lights, no dash lights and the battery is totally dead again. This is the fourth battery in this car in the few years I have owned it. I'm drawing a blank as to where to start looking for problems, Please anyone help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Seems like there are several fuse link sections on the battery cable, rather than just one as many other vehicles have.Might need to get your battery electronically load-checked to see if it's still up to the task of storing energy. As with an "electronic" checker as the dealership might use.I don't recall, off hand, if the ignition key is a "chip" key, with an exposed chip internal with the key shank, with the contacts for the resistor sticking out a little from each side of the shank. Sometimes, they'll wear down and not make contact with the contacts inside of the ignition cylinder. When that happens, it's "new key time" . . . with the dealership decoding the resistor with their VATS Check "box" and then cutting a new key with the correct resistor chip in it (there are about 13 different keys!).In the VATS system, there's a separate computer which energizes the starter, once the correct key is in the ignition cylinder. The key's resistance value and the "value" in the VATS module HAVE to be the same of it doesn't work--period--quite effective. The issue of "dead batteries" is interesting, though. There is another electrical "checker" to check for parasitic drains. The engine computer would be one, the body control module would be one, the radio would be one, the security system/keyless entry would be one . . . for example. Of course, if a diode is bad in the alternator, it might do the same thing, except worse.When the 1984 Corvettes were shipped to dealers, they had a factory security system. The dealers got a letter which stated, basically, that the cars were shipped with batteries with about 60% of total charge, therefore the batteries had to be charged before the cars were presented for sale. The other thing was that if the cars were not started periodically, the security system would drain the battery in about 30 days (from a "full charge" condition, much less a lesser-starting charge level).I know that many people have their own orientations and "luck" with batteries . . . so here are a few of my experiences. First . . . I have a '67 Chrysler that I used to drive periodically. Being that I was showing it with our local Mopar club, I wanted a Chrysler battery in it. In periodic use, I was usually replacing them every 12-16 months, but the Chrysler battery in my parents car (daily use) would last 4+ years. When I was getting ready to revive it, I went to the local WalMart and purchased two Group 24 batteries, one for that car and another one for my '80 Chrysler (also being revived). Several months later, I needed the battery for the '80 and took it to the shop doing the work. I was advised that although it would charge up and look "good", it would not start the car, so I ended up buying another auto supply battery to get it running. The battery I put in the '67 never did seem to come to full charge, several times. So much for that.I put another WalMart battery in my '77 Camaro, daily use, vehicle. It lasted about 2 years before it started going away. I bought the less expensive one due to the fact I didn't want to spend the money for an ACDelco . . . but I eventually did purchase an ACDelco later on.I recently purchased a 2000 Impala. It had a Sears DieHard battery in it, of undertermined age, but it looked good. It went through all of the cold weather we had, but started going away after it warmed up some. I replaced it with an ACDelco battery and all is well . . . AND "in character" . . . again.These are my experiences AND I know there are some who have had differing experiences with the same brands of batteries, which I respect. Perhaps it was due to vendor issues OR more localized vendor issues? Not sure.The OTHER thing to make sure of is that both the battery terminals and cable ends have NO innocent-looking "coatings" on them . . . only clean and shiney metal contact surfaces. I had one situation where things looked good, other than the "coating" between the top post battery terminal and the cable end . . . similar experiences as to what worked and what didn't . . . until I cleaned the cable ends and top post terminals and then EVERYTHING worked again.Is the battery you were using a battery you had originally in the car last season or just a battery you were using to get it fired off? What about if you used a portable "jump box"?Might be time to consider purchasing something I've thought about . . . a "battery tender" to keep the batteries charges in the "off season"?Please keep us posted on what you find out.NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 so the other day I went and put my battery into my T-type and was going to start it for the first time since Nov.(damn winter was to long) Anyhow, I turned the key and got nothing. All the dash lights came on and I heard the fuel pump running but it was not turning over. I was thinking it is a bad starter, but my dad said it could be something else. So today I was going to check to see if I have a problem with the battery cables, by turning on the headlights and turning the key again, checking all the fuseable links in the cables but today nothing works, no lights, no dash lights and the battery is totally dead again. This is the fourth battery in this car in the few years I have owned it. I'm drawing a blank as to where to start looking for problems, Please anyone help?Do the lights flicker or go out when you turn the key? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Redwind89 Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 Wes no they did not. But I'm all good now. car has a new starter and it starts great, its sitting outside right now getting sun for the first in 8 monthsThanks for the help. My dad thinks with a half charged battery and a bad starter it just killed the battery the other day. battery is hooked up now and I will check it on tomorrow and Monday to see how it holds up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Thanks for the update!NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Wes no they did not. But I'm all good now. car has a new starter and it starts great, its sitting outside right now getting sun for the first in 8 monthsThanks for the help. My dad thinks with a half charged battery and a bad starter it just killed the battery the other day. battery is hooked up now and I will check it on tomorrow and Monday to see how it holds up.They are great cars arent they! Hey post some pics of your '89 2 door limited! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Redwind89 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Wes I wish I could. The only pictures of that car I don't own. I keep on telling my friend to find them but he hasn't yet. Once I get them they will be up here. Here are some of my Lesabre T-types instead. and here is my park ave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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