Guest MidTNDawg Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 What is involved in replacing this on a '30 DA? Where do I find the material? What procedure? If the answer is join DBC that is OK with me, I am joining. Also, I think I will be replacing the brake system. At least this was my experience with the '67 VW beetle I am getting rid of. Age had simply taken a toll on the master cylinder and wheel cylinders. Also had to replace the flexible lines. I expect the same with the Dodge. Am I off base? Any other advice welcomed. I leave on the 31st to pick "him" up. Thanks, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 The roof material in original appearance is no longer avail as far as I know, closest material might be avail thru a Ford supplier, your top is an insert meaning that the entire assy comes out by removing your headliner ect and there you will see the wooden box that the top is joined to or wrapped around. I have a spare roof insert that I can show you but at this point I can not show much of it because it is buried behind so much other crap.There is no reason to replace the brake system but rebuilding might be neccesary, if you have an original Lockheed master than you are lucky as most cars have been long gone. it along with the wheel cylinders can all be sleeved and will work like new, the brake system that came with your car originally will stop it just fine still. Some of your brake lines were originally steel ( off the top of my head the one that runs from master to first junction is steel ) and some were copper. Again you can even have the original rubber lines replaced using your original fittings if they still exist if you can find the right person to do that. Dont expect to find ANYTHING off the shelf for this car, everything you will touch will have to be rebuilt unless you take the easy sometimes spineless way out and replace original parts with unoriginal off the counter parts that can be made to work, its all on what you feel you want to do at this point.By the way I had a 65 for years, I stuck a porche motor in it and it would run pretty well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MidTNDawg Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Thanks, John. I may have more questions needless to say. "67 VW is the last year of the "round" bumpers, 1st year of the std sealed beam, and 1st year of the factory 12 V system. All in all, a nice car. I have had this one for several years now. I have a 1600 cc engine blueprinted and supposedly balanced to 5 grams but it is not in the car I as I am selling. Runs pretty good itself. The Carrera engine is pretty much a bolt up job and produces one bad VW.Back to the roof. Once the headliner is removed I assume the removal of the insert becomes obvious. Is this correct? At this point, remove the cover, rewrap and stick back in? Is this correct? I know saying and doing are two very different things. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MidTNDawg Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 The roof material in original appearance is no longer avail as far as I know, closest material might be avail thru a Ford supplier, your top is an insert meaning that the entire assy comes out by removing your headliner ect and there you will see the wooden box that the top is joined to or wrapped around. I have a spare roof insert that I can show you but at this point I can not show much of it because it is buried behind so much other crap.There is no reason to replace the brake system but rebuilding might be neccesary, if you have an original Lockheed master than you are lucky as most cars have been long gone. it along with the wheel cylinders can all be sleeved and will work like new, the brake system that came with your car originally will stop it just fine still. Some of your brake lines were originally steel ( off the top of my head the one that runs from master to first junction is steel ) and some were copper. Again you can even have the original rubber lines replaced using your original fittings if they still exist if you can find the right person to do that. Dont expect to find ANYTHING off the shelf for this car, everything you will touch will have to be rebuilt unless you take the easy sometimes spineless way out and replace original parts with unoriginal off the counter parts that can be made to work, its all on what you feel you want to do at this point.By the way I had a 65 for years, I stuck a porche motor in it and it would run pretty well.Hey, John. What seals the insert and the opening to prevent the water from seeping through? Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Hey, John. What seals the insert and the opening to prevent the water from seeping through? DougI think you mean "Jason" if you are referring to "1930". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MidTNDawg Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Well, duh. Of course, and yesterday was a long day. So, Jason, John, or anybody, what seals it? Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Zetnick Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 MidTNDawg, if you look up an old post called '1929 DA-6 4-dr sedan roof framing' you'll find some info there. The top wood framing is held in by bolts on the side pieces and screws at the underside if your '30 is like my '29. If you look at the post I used a 3M strip caulk available at O-Reilly Auto Parts and maybe other places..it is a black gooey caulk that is supposedly close to the original "dum-dum" caulk. I wonder if you are just replacing the top material if the work needs to be so invasive as to take out headliner and roof framing? Any other DBer thoughts out there on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MidTNDawg Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Bob, thanks. I will find the referenced post. Thanks so much for the help!. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I just run a bead of black RTV silicone rubber around the insert after I drop it in the car. Some cars have a metal trim piece that goes in the groove ,some don't. But they ALL leaked eventually staining the headliner. With the metal trim installation you can just put a small RTV bead in the groove and install the trim. With the ones that have no trim ,like the '33 DP, you can put in a small bead of silicone rubber and then wipe it down below level with paper towels as you go around the insert. The RTV will last forever and being black is almost invisible especially since it's on the top of the car and below eye sight. Also makes for an easier job as the fitting does not have to be rubber mallet tight as it was originally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MidTNDawg Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 DodgeKCL, thanks. Honestly this was the kind of response I was hoping for. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 29 and 30 are the same and the insert drops into the opening, there is no metal strip that runs curcumfrence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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