Question about Rear Shackle replacement 37 Pontiac

[Guest bofusmosby]

I just purchased a new(old stock) set of rear shackles for the rear leaf springs of my car, and I was reading the instructions in my "Motor's" repair manual. These shackles use threaded pins that screw into the steel bushings. According to the instructions, a "bushing tool should be used to "press the old bushings out, as well as installing the replacement bushings back into the eye of the leaf spring, as well as the spring hanger. I have no idea if this is a common type, and if I could even find this special tool (part # J-136-12). Any suggestions on this? Are these "bushings a pain to remove? Should I just use the same old bushings?

Also included with this kit I bought are the 8 cork washers that fin onto the ends of the pins before the shackle plates are installed. Because of the age of this kit, there are a couple of the cork washers broken, and I have a feeling that due to their age, the others might be very brittle. Do any of the auto parts stores stock cork material so that I can make (cut) my own washers that will not fall apart when installed?

Any help or insight you can offer will be greatly appreciated in this. I'd like to know what I am up against before I start.

Thank you very much!

[Guest 36chev]

From your description, they sound like the same type of bushing used in my 36 Chevy--a threaded bushing that presses into the frame perch with a corresponding bushing pressing into the spring eye. Although it could be the same type of goof when I assumed your car had a torque tube

Anyway, the ones on the 36 took a tremendous amount of pressure to press in and out. For the springs, simple enough to use a press. For the frame bushing, the Chevrolet documentation described a hefty special Kent-Moore tool.

Not having that, I found that a ball joint clamp (basically a big, extremely heavily build C-clamp) worked along with an appropriate socket to press out the old bushing and then press in the new one. But still took a long breaker bar to get started and then a lot of muscling with a ratchet. It would be best to have two people to help hold and line up things. I borrowed one from a local garage--I was going to rent it but they were nice and let me borrow it.

Hope this helps.

[Guest 36chev]

Forgot to say anything about the cork washers. The 36 uses those as well--the kits I had were good enough to use the washers, although a couple split on installing. I think some of the repop places might have them-or if the same as Chevrolet, Obsolete Chevrolet in Georgia would probably have them.

Although in my opinion, the washers are not absolutely necessary. It keeps extra grease from squirting out and I guess should keep out dust, but if not there not the end of the world.

And yes, if you can, I would recommend replacing the bushings if worn, along with new pins. It made a difference in the handling of my car--not as wandering with road irregularities, etc.

P.S. If you need any more bushing or pins, I think have some extra, possibly along with some of the cork washers--or they may be later rubber replacement type washers. But you should check to see if the 37 Pontiac is the same as the Chevrolet. Chevy used these pins/bushings for a good number of years--the 37 Chevy I know used the same.

[Guest bofusmosby]

Thank you 36chev. Yours sounds exectly like what I have. I didn't think about trying a large "C" clamp. I guess I need to go to some of the auto parts stores and see if they have anything I can use to replace the broken cork washers. From what you have described, it sounds like it is going to be a real pain. I know that a day or two before I start replacing these, I need to use some PB Blaster on the nut and bolt. This will at least give me a fighting chance to break this loose.

Thank you!

[R Walling]

A little heat on the springs won't hurt, keep it below 212 degrees (water boiling temp) and if you place a heavy dolly on one side of the pin hole (not the ends) and strike the other side with a hammer; it will allow penetrating oil to work its way in and free frozen rust.

You could consider using thick "O" rings in place of the cork. When greased, you wont even see the "O" ring.

[Guest 36chev]

Jim,

If you don't have the bushings for the front of the rear springs, here is link to an ebay listing for some--could go for a reasonable price--Spring eye bushings. They press into the spring eye.

[Rusty_OToole]

Every good auto parts store sells cork gasket material if you want to cut fresh gaskets. But I would substitute neoprene O rings if possible. They are a much better grease seal, and cheaper.

[Guest bofusmosby]

Thanks guys for the words of advice. When I was looking, I didn't see anything wrong with the front shackles, but I guess if I am going to do a job, I might as well do the complete job. I see that the front bushings are totally different then the rear ones.

Rusty, do the auto parts stores carry various sizes and thinknesses of the neoprene O rings? I guess if they do, all I would have to do is to take the old cork ones in to have them matched up. Thank you!

36chev, I have saved the listings of the front bushings on my Ebay. I'll keep an eye on them, and thank you!

Roger, that a great tip! Thank you!

[junkyardjeff]

I used a long bolt with washers and a piece of pipe to change them in my 37 chevy p/u.

[Rusty_OToole]

Auto stores sell O rings and so do hardware stores. They are used in plumbing and many other things and they come in many sizes.

[Guest Silverghost]

The cork rings don't last very long.

The rubber rings do a better long term job!

I would go with new rubber rings !