John Gelfer Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 Just pulled the leaking water pump off my 1928 Gardner. I had tried to tighten the gland nut, but it didn't help. I dug out the old stuff, and found molten lead had been poured over the string packing forming two lead/string donuts around the shaft. The gland nut has 1/2" of thread, while the hole is 15/16" deep. That's a lot of space to fill. Should I just use a lot of the 1/4" compression packing to fill the hole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Silverghost Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 (edited) Flax waxed packing can be bought at most Industrial hardware supplies and marine sites such as West Marine and some plumbing supply stores.It comes in sizes up to 3/4"Use only complete rings cut on an angle.You need at least two rings.Use old fashoned tallow water pump grease to lube. Measure the area around the shaft to inside of gland cavity to get the exact width you need. Do not use the narrow stuff ! Hope this helps :Let me know the size you need.It comes braided & waxed in square cross-section.Don't use the modern Teflon packing. What you want is shat & valve stem packing. Edited September 23, 2010 by Silverghost (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen_Dyneto Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 John, I'm not familiar with your particular pump, but generally the best option is to use split ring graphited cord packing. Depending on the cavity shape and the form of the packing gland, using smaller diameter graphited cord packing and carefully tamping it to form inside the cavity will work well. I did my 34 Packard pump with the cord material 40+ thousand miles ago and it hasn't required any attention since. I've had less luck with the cord on a 31 Pierce-Arrow and think the split-ring material would have worked out better. In any event, it's a pretty simple matter. Never heard of pouring lead in there and can't understand how it would function successfully. Sounds like a Goldberg job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 How close is that size to a Model A Ford Water pump size? All of the Model A Ford Suppliers have a water pump packing material that I think might work for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Gelfer Posted September 24, 2010 Author Share Posted September 24, 2010 I used Teflon in my Model T pump and it worked for a few years with no leaks. I'm told it won't last as long as the graphite impregnated rope packing. Teflon does not compress much.BTW, the model A packing is too skinny for my application. I ordered the right stuff from McMaster Carr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen_Dyneto Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Teflon seems to have two strikes against it, at least by comments I've heard. First, it doesn't compress well to conform to the packing cavity, and secondly it has the reputation of being hard on shafts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Silverghost Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Teflon is very hard on shafts and it generates heat.The faster the shaft rotates the more heat.Old fashoned Flax packing absorbs water and this lubes the shaft and cools it very well, I tried teflon packing and soon went back to the old standby.Waxed Flax packing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest trainguy Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 It has been my experiance that the grafite,wax,flax packing works the best.But remember if the shaft bushings are worn,you will be unable to keep the pump from leaking,the play in the brgs will wallow out the packing in a short time.The packing will not work as a bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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