brake seize problem on 40 ford

[Guest lenmissy]

I just purched a 40 ford driving home the brakes began to seize i stoped the car let the drums cool after a sort distance 10 miles same thing can some solve my problem len email lsharky@mts.net

[Guest lenmissy]

ford

[R Walling]

Probably a broken return spring on the front shoe or a stuck wheel cylinder.

In any case, the drums must be removed and a brake job done while it is apart.

[Dave Henderson]

It points to the master cylinder, since drums plural heat up. Could be as simple as an improper adjustment of the linkage between the pedal and the piston in the mc, or a defective internal part, preventing the pressure from being relieved and allowing the fluid to return to the reservoir when the pedal is let up.

[Guest lenmissy]

It points to the master cylinder, since drums plural heat up. Could be as simple as an improper adjustment of the linkage between the pedal and the piston in the mc, or a defective internal part, preventing the pressure from being relieved and allowing the fluid to return to the reservoir when the pedal is let up.

thanks you do not think the brakes ar to tight

[Guest Skyking]

thanks you do not think the brakes ar to tight

If the problem isn't in the m/c adjusting rod like mentioned above, the shoes could be adjusted too tight causing excessive heat building up in the system.

[Guest 1hooligan]

Brake cylinders will rust in place, and when you start to drive, and press hard on the brake pedal, will move outward thus engaging the brake shoes to the drums, but dont, or will not return to the collapsed position due to the rust in the cylinders. Hopefully, the heat did not warp the drums. Needless to say the cylinders will need to be replaced or rebuild if possible, along with the master cylinder. The drums should also be turned and cleaned up, and any broken or damaged parts replaced, clean out all of the old fluid from the lines, before attaching to the new wheel cylinders. I personally then use carb cleaner sprayed thru the lines, followed by air to blow everthing out, then attach to the new wheel cylinders and fill with brake fluid, and bleed as necessary. Lastly adjust the brakes. All new or rebuilt parts are very available for your car, including new brake shoes, ebay is a great sourse. Pat

[Guest De Soto Frank]

Check brake-pedal push-rod adjustment ( if not enough free play, relief port in MC will not be uncovered when brake pedal is released, and will not allow fluid to return from the wheel-cylinders.).

Also, if car has been sitting for a while (more than a couple months), there may be crud in the bottom of the Master Cylinder blockiing the relief port - a tiny passage, about 1/16th" diameter.

The 1940 - '48 Ford has Lockheed fixed-anchor brakes, which are a bit different from the Bendix-design drum brakes used by nearly everyone else since about 1935.

You might do well to find some seasoned Ford V-8 guys ( not rodders) in your area or pre-1956 MoPar guys, as MoPar also used Lockheed brakes... they can help you get straightened-out.

If nothing else, get a reprint of the factory shop manual for your '40, or a MoToR's shop manual from the era, and read-up on the brakes...

Good luck !

[critterpainter]

A quick test to find the problem is to "crack" a bleed port on one cyl. If a bit of fluid spits out and then the cars freely then it is a problem in the hyd system. I would look first at the master cyl.

Bill

[Guest billybird]

lenmissy: You may already be aware of this, but you will need a puller suitable for early V-8 Fords because of the tapered axle if you intend to pull the drums off.