1956 Dash Lights

[Long Roof]

Well I got my speedometer repaired and put back into the dash. While everything was opened up, I changed all the bulbs too. Now when I hooked the battery back up, I have no dash lights. Head lights, turn signals, map light all work.

The shop manual shows the dash lights coming off the headlight switch. I checked the wire on the switch and have power, and the dimmer seems to work too. Voltage ranges from around 9v to a little over 12v.

No separate fuse protects the dash lights, but there is supposed to be a circuit breaker on the head light switch. I am not sure what I am looking for here. Is this something that must be manually reset or is it automatic? I did see a little metal button on the top of the switch housing. It has a small spring under it. Pushing it does not seem to do anything.

Anybody have any suggestions?

By the way, pulling the gauge cluster was a pain in the butt.

[JohnD1956]

That small button you pushed is the release that allows the knob to be pulled out. Once that knob is pulled out you can use a spaner type wrench ( or a screwdriver) to remove the slotted round nut inside the trim, and then the whole switch will fall out the back of the dash.

On my 56 the rheostat went bad. Mainly it looked rusted on top and for severl years if I just ran the dash board dimmer turn to turn it would make contact eventually and they would work. The last time they wouldn't and when I pulled the switch out I bent the rheostat contact out of touch and then ran a jumper wire across the two terminals on the rheostat.

You do loose the dimmer capabilities and the dash lights wil run at full power. But I like em that way anyhow. Been like that for several years now, with limited use, but no problems.

[Long Roof]

Thanks for the information JohnD. I have not had time to get back to the car to do more checking. I am pretty sure I had voltage off the terminal on the back of the switch that is supposed to feed the lights. I will double check to be sure. If it has power, there must be a break in the wiring somewhere.

Now that I know how to remove the switch I will pull it, get it cleaned up and test operation. I did find a section in the shop manual on the light switch and thermal circuit breaker operation. I think I need to spend some quality time with my wires.

[Guest NikeAjax]

I totally agree with John; you probably have verdigris, aka green-schmootz, on the rheostat of your dimmer switch. Take a wire brush to it after you get it out, also make sure you have continuity when you hold a tester between the two rivets that hold the rheostat on. If you don't have continuity, you'll need to have it rebuilt; I used a really small spring, drilled out the rivets, and used a set of tiny nuts and bolts to hold it in place, in place of the rivets. I need to go back and re-rebuild it after I find a better rheostat/spring, but I do have dash-lights!

Jaybird

[JohnD1956]

Never thought of rebuilding mine. If you are in need of the dimmer I'd suggest getting one from Ken Reeves ( Wheatbelt Auto). I can only tell you how nice the 56 heater core he sent to me was. Looked practically new, and needed no repair before installation. I'd be surprised if a rheostat from there was unuseable.

Can't recall which vendor I saw it at but in flint in 2008 someone had a new rheostat. Perhaps a Bugle "wanted" ad would scare up the part?