Problems with starter-generators 1916 1923

[Guest Hockeye]

Howdy, Gents and Ladies!

I have a 1916 and a 1923 Buick.

Sometimes, or usually, when I push in with my foot on the starter pedal the pedal "catches" and I have to piddle with it to get it to go the farther distance to the point that the starter motor takes over. I still do not have a good idea of just what happens from the time I turn on the ignition switch to the time the armature shaft starts to turn the flywheel.

The 1916 is "catching" worse than the 1923, and I suspect either a gear is not meshing, or maybe something is snagging on the linkage which moves the starter brushes to the starter commutator. Whew. You don't know how hard that was to say, but maybe I got y'all laughing a bunch.

I also have a 1915, 1922 and a 1924 Dodge Bros with the "Silent Start" starter generator units, and they are smooth and quiet. What's the difference?

Finally, who knows how to service/repair/rebuild these things? And who is willing to take on such a job and actually do it.

PS Anyone able to recommend some idiot's book with a chapter on "Starter Generators For Dummies" or the like? __________________

[Leif Holmberg]

Take a look at this old thread,mayby it will help you to understand how it works.

Leif in Sweden.

http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1923-buick-23-4-39-restoration-270513.html

[unimogjohn]

And check the linkages from your starter pedal to the top of the starter gear box. A simple broken washer or loose bolt can cause the gears not to engage as there is not enough travel. I would also take off the cover of the gear box to inspect and lube as necessary. With these old units, and not being used much, lube is usually the problem, either nasty hard stuff or non at all.

I have been told (but not verified) that Precision Power does rebuild these units. Home

Let us know what you find and if you were successful.

[Guest Hockeye]

Good Morning, Leif, Good Morning, John!

Thanks for the replies. One quick question from the old thread John suggested. The guys talked about "really stomping" on the starter pedal, which is rather what it takes to engage the 1916's starter. I just hate doing it.

Question: is there any danger of damaging something by doing this?

On my side, I will do some digging and see what's going on here. I'll get back with you nice folks.

Steve

[Dandy Dave]

Apples to Oranges comparing the North East Starter to the Delco's used on the Buicks. The North East system used on the Dodge is alway turning when the crank shaft is turning, weather starting, or running. It has no slip cutch like the Buick and both functions are carried out from one common drive point which is fixed and positively driven with the chain.

The front half of the Buick system is driven off of the timing gears and the distributor is set to that. Just behind the Distributor there is a slip clutch that will allow the armature to spin faster than the distributor in start mode. This keeps the motor in time. After the car starts and the pinion gear releases from the flywheel, the override clutch will take over to spin the armature in generate mode. The armatuer is double wound. Half of it is starter windings, the other half is generator windings. This is the basic function in a nut shell. I would agree that Good lubrication in the proper points is a must. Dandy Dave!

[unimogjohn]

Steve, take the cover (kind of a triangle thing) off the back of the starter/generator. In the back you will see a large rod in the starter/generator. This is what moves the brushes from start to generator mode. There is a C type rod attached to it, make sure that these both move freely and have a good coating on the shaft. This is usually what make things work rather slugglishly. And yes, I do really have to jab my foot onto the starter pedal to get everything to push in correctly and start the starter functioning. Sometimes it takes a couple of hard stabs to make it all come together. Good luck. Let us know what you find behind those covers.