Guest wrennch Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Hey everybody i'm new here and new to working on super old stuff, but im not new to working on engines and trannys and stuff like that. My dad got this buick a couple months ago. It is in great shape, except for the engine, brakes, and wheels. The engine was locked up tight but between me and a buddy we were able to get the pistons broke free. After that i honed the cylinders, cleaned the head, copper coated the head gasket and put the motor back together and had it running that night. The car ran great, except for when we unhooked the battery charger and took it for a drive. Im sure the battery is bad and wouldnt hold a charge. Well now for the big problem. I came home from school for Thanksgiving break and got it running. It was hard to start and began smoking bad. I checked the oil and it was milky, so there is coolant mixing with the oil. It was also leaking the coolant oil mix out between the head and the block. Now when i torqued the head i had no idea what to torque it to so i think i did 20-30ft/lbs. I have been looking all over the web and can't find any info or parts to fix the motor up. So i have a few questions. where can i find motor torque specs? Where can i find new wheels and brakes? Where can i find a 6volt to 12volt conversion kit? Thanks <!-- google_ad_section_end --> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest captbrian38 Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 bob's automobilia in Calif. can take care of everything you mentioned here in your thread. The torque should be about 75 ft/lbs for that head gasket but if it's leaking now you probably need a new one. Plenty of old threads on this site about engine work also so do some research into the past year's worth of threads. bob'sautomobilia.com will send you a catalog.captbrian38Brian K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Engle Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 I highly recommend that you join the Buick Club of America. They have a whole list of volunteer techinical experts for all makes and models of Buicks and can put you in touch with many resources to answer most of your questions.The BCA has been terrrific help to me on my 32 Buick.Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Try these links:Buick Club of America - BCA - WelcomeBuick Club of America Pre-War DiOnline CatalogWelcome To Olson's Gaskets! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicksplus Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 Cracks or porosity in the water jacket are common in these engines. If there are cracks on the pushrod side of the engine, the water drips straight into the oil pan. The good news is these cracks are easily fixed with fiberglass and the 'glass holds up well because the coolant is not pressurized. But you do need to find them. They can be seen pretty easily if you take those large side covers off and fill up the radiator. It could be a head gasket too, but I doubt it. Even with the low torque you used, I don't think much coolant whould end up in the crankcase. But I would still put a new gasket in there and torque it up properly.Stop running the engine, of course, that coolant will damage the poured babbitt bearings in your engine very quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrennch Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 ya i found the crack and it is on the push rod side. that is easily fixed. i plan on getting a new head gasket for it because it leaks coolant into the oil very bad. it even leaks cool/oil mix out of the motor between the head and the block. so what is your thought on the head bolt torque? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Engle Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 I like to start out in the center of the head and tighten out towards the ends. Take your time. Torgue to 30 ft-lb. Then again to 40, then 50 then 60 then 70 then end up with 75. You don't want to put any more stress on the castings than necessary. On the water jacket repair, since the cooling systems are open, there is very little pressure to cause leak problems, It's the temperature change that stesses the castings causing leaks.Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrennch Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 ok sounds good. ya i found some block sealant stuff ill try. So youre saying that 75lbs is my end torque? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Engle Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 75 ft-lbs is what I would use. Anything less will not put much stress load on the head bolts. The goal is to have the bolts work like a spring by being stretched within their elastic range. This keeps everything tight.Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrennch Posted December 8, 2009 Share Posted December 8, 2009 alright thanks for the help with that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Rawling Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Check the head and the block with a straight edge to see that neither is warped. You do not want to waste an expensive head gasket if there is a warped head or block.I have found that if you surface the head, you should surface the block as well. I have had leaks by only doing the head and not the block.Most of what I have seen on touquing the head bolts on these engines show tightening them in a circular pattern from the center to the ends. The advice on tightning them in stages given above is good advice.I have a new old stock head gasket in case you have not found one.If some of the head bolts have the threads rusted off at the end, you can buy new head bolts from the auto parts or truck parts store. They may have to order them. I had to buy a whole box to get the few that I needed. I could sell you some of the extras if you need them. I put the new bolts inside the rocker cover where the smaller size head would not show. That way everything that you can see looks original.When installing or removing the water tube, be sure that the end of your open end wrench does not hit the leg of the water tube and poke a hole in the leg of the water tube.Almost every time that I have started and run an old car that has sat for a long time, I have had a heating problem because the radiator was plugged up. It is a good precaution to take the radiator to a radiator shop and have it rodded out. They can do that on these radiators.BE SURE THAT THEY DO NOT SOAK IT IN A HOT TANK. YOU WILL HAVE MORE LEAKS THAN YOU CAN IMAGINE Diping it is o.k. but do not let them leave it in the tank for a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrennch Posted April 26, 2010 Share Posted April 26, 2010 i have the head in at a machine shop getting planed, guides, springs, seats, and getting checked for cracks. Hopefully he didnt soak it in a hot tank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Rawling Posted April 26, 2010 Share Posted April 26, 2010 It is the radiator that you do not want to soak in the hot tank, not the head.My experience is that if you surface the head, you should surface the top of the block. It is a lot of work to pull the block buy if it is warped, you will still have a water leak. Check carefully the top of the block with a straight edge and feeler gauge to see if it is warped.Have you been to 1927buicks@yahoogroups.com. There is a lot of good information there. Join the group and go to the files section and print out the David Chambers article. It will answer a lot of questions for you.Fred Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrennch Posted April 26, 2010 Share Posted April 26, 2010 ok thank you for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wrennch Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 there is no way that those head bolts can be torqued over 40 ft/lbs. i stretched to grade 8 bolts trying to torque them to 45 ft/lbs. You say the final head bolt torqu is 75ft/lbs? NO WAY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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