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1948 Buick Sedanette


Guest boyesreef

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Guest boyesreef

im looking into getting a 1948 Sedanette to restore. my grandfather in law has one sitting in the woods behind his house. it is sitting on tires, and also on a stump so its off the ground. the floor is partialy missing, and the engine and trans are out of it, and located elseware on the property. other than that its compleate. i didnt catch the mileage on it, but i understand it is low. the windows are all there and rolled up, so the interior is complete and not eaten and infested with rodents. the roof has a large dent in it, but the edges arn't creased so it will come out nicely. what do you think? should i risk it? will frame rot be a big issue? thanks in advance for your help.

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I guess it all depends on how long it has been sitting outside. If the floor is missing in part, you better expect that the interior is not infested. Also, likely some frame rust, but who knows until you look. But there are a limited number of these cars around.

Sounds like an interesting project.

John

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A lot of work. A full restoration. Expect about $30,000 or more. New upholstery, engine rebuild. You will need to buy a donor for the floors or buy them from a salvage yard. Motor rebuilds on the straight 8 done right are $3000 to $4000. Bodywork and floor work (metal) is probably around $15,000. Brakes/exhaust/chrome.

If it is a Roadmaster it will be worth more then the Super but the Super has more mechanical parts available.

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Guest boyesreef

im not sure if its a super or roadmaster, but if it helps there are no ports, and the front fenders have a defined end, they dont flow all the way back to the rear fenders. also, from what i could tell the seats are mostly there, but i didnt poke at it to see if it would hold up. the head liner is torn up. i pressed my foot down on the floor to the cabin heal hard and it stayed, but if you open the trunk you can see the ground in spots.

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The body style is so cool that's for sure. But as far as what it will take to restore - Super or Roadmaster - A LOT. Basically think of it as building a car piece by piece off the assembly line.

Even though you know where the drivetrain is, it's much different when it has been out of the car for so long. If it's in the car, then you can pull it with throttle linkage and related parts right there. You can take digital photos of how everything should go back.

However, when a car has the motor pulled especially so long ago, memory fades on how it was removed and many times owners pulled drivetrains without careful attention to putting it back in. After all, for many years it was just a used car.

So, you would need a 2 car garage because you are going to have to strip this car to just parts then rebuild. You are going to need someway to remove the body from the frame. Then you restore the frame. This means removal of worn parts, cleaning, sandblasting -rebuild the brakes at this point, remove steering slop if any. Rebuild the front suspension. If you want to restore proper ride, the knee action shocks in front will need rebuolt ($300 or so)

The motor and transmission and torque tube will need rebuilt, or examined at this phase. As mentioned, to rebuild a straight 8 with machine shop time will be $3000 or more. The 320 straight 8 exhaust manifold is hard to find and expensive when you can find it ($600)

Radiator needs redone, new small parts like the hoses, carb rebuilt, heater box, etc. Get a Bob's Automobilia catalog.

Chrome will need rechromed, more then likely BUT if it's still decent, you can save a little by polishing and buffing. The problem is if you put $10,000 to $14,000 in the body then original chrome won't look right next to it.

The body will need donor pans as mentioned. he dash will need redone, painted, instruments rebuilt, radio. Upholstery - original reproduction fabric is probably available but expect about $750 to $1000 per seat done right.

Glass is flat and my understanding is that it can be replaced. Details such as rubber, windlace, and sill plates are important considerations. New sill plates are available but it seems like everything is $$$ no matter what.

It will be hard to maintain enthusiasm over the time of the project. ebay and Craigs List are littered with started but never completed projects. It's a lot of work and money. You can buy really nice restored or mixed restored/original cars in the $10,000 to $15,000 range. Not just Buicks but just about anything.

You would need a budget and need to look at this with a plan. It wouldn't hurt to do your research 1st such as buy a Hemmings Motor News, join the BCA, get the catalogs, find a local upholstery shop that does old cars, machine shop, etc.

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Guest ewing

if the fenders don't flow all the way to the back then its a special.

It would have 2 horizontal side spears on the front and rear fenders and a third stainless trim line along the bottom edge of the side full length between the wheel openings.

A very nice body style!

Look for the vehicle id plate on the firewall. It should start with something like 46S or 46 S and body style 47-4407 of 48-4407 ( depending if its a 47 or 48 year). They would look very much the same.

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Guest boyesreef

BJM, thanks for the tips. I have restored a 1950 GMC pickup (3 window not 5) from the frame up. took me 5 years and more money than my wife knows (oops). I love the restoration process, BUT it was an Arizona truck so it didnt even know what rust was. And I drove it onto the trailer under its own power. This car is a Vermont car, and is a couple years older. I havent picked it up yet, but its there when I want it. im looking for a good restore, and i want to do all the work myself, ive don appolstry, and ive sprayed a few cars myself. so i can save some cash there. (hopefully).

ewing, thanks for the tag info, i didnt know that, and i wished id looked at the tag (and knew it was there). im going with all this from memory, as the car it 3 hours from home.

now, as an old car in the woods, i can get a bill of sale (easily). my question is do i get the title made up, then restore, or restore then replace the title? i would hate to restore it then find out it cant be titled (incase its stolen or something), but i would also hate to try to title it, just to find out you cant title an unroadworthy vehicle.

i mat be thinking way to into this. i drove the GMC to the titling agency so i have no idea.

thanks for the advice guys!

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  • 1 year later...
Guest jdunlop

If anyone is working on a 1948 Buick 2-door super sedanette fastback I would like to talk to you ...I've got one in progress and could use some input/help! Thanks Jim

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If it's a Roadmaster, I would say give it a try, but you'll be upside down before the engine is rebuilt if it's a Super. They're gorgeous cars, but I'd only jump into one of the small series cars if you're doing it for the love, not the money. They'll both cost the same to restore, but the small series cars will be worth somewhat less when complete.

If this one has been sitting and the floors are bad, expect some fabrication, but nothing that's beyond a decent metalworker. I did some of the floors in my '41 and I'm no expert and I'm pleased with the results that I got with a little patience and skill.

"Complete" is a relative term, especially if the engine is located elsewhere. Some of those little pieces can be very difficult and costly to find.

As usual, my advice is that if you truly love the car and it has some sentimental value, then a restoration can be rewarding. But if you're just looking for something to do, this car sounds like it could be a big mountain to climb. Always buy the nicest car you can possibly afford because basket cases will eat up your savings and your sanity at an equally alarming rate.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

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Guest tolstoinut

HI, Jim,I have been working on a 48 roadmaster sedan 71 for 2 1/2 years.Lets talk about problem spots. Mine was bought with a good running engine,but lots ,lots ,lots of rust.I have almost finished all body repairs. The thing you need to be concerned with are the body mounts. The frame on this car is almost indestrucable but the body mounts will rust out.I had one that was completly gone and some others that needed help.Rear wheel wells needed a lot of repair from underneath.Rocker panels on mine were completly gone. I went to a steel shop and had some custom made. There is a guy on E-bay selling them now. Then, behind the outside rocker panel ,ther is a inside rocker panel.Mine were also in bad shape. Lots of work to fix, but totally necessary because the body mounts attach here.Are you depressed yet ? My advice to you is keep your eye out for a decent car on E-bay and Craigslist of the same style and year. One that needs work but has some reedemable qualities .(like a running engine ). Then you will have an excellent parts car for the new one. Good luck, Greg in Maine

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