STUCK MOTOR

[Guest]

I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 1927 FORD MODEL T TOURING AND THE ENGINE IS STUCK. ANY IDEAS ON HOW TO GET IT BROKE LOOSE?

[Guest]

I would remove the head and squirt some W D-40 into the cylinders. Leave this for a couple of days, then see if you can turn the engine over with the crank. It may need a complete rebuild. But take it one step at a time.<BR>Roger

[fordee9r (Ron Springstead)]

I agree with Mr. Price on applying a penetrating oil to the cylinder/piston area but I think there are products out there with stronger corrosion busting properties than WD-40. <P>Check your local auto parts stores for "PB Blaster Rust Penetrant". This stuff works pretty good. In upstate NY, we have a "wagon-pedaler" who distributes "Castle Products". If there is someone in your area calling on used car dealers you might be able to purchase their "Liquid Torch" penetrating oil. This stuff is really fantastic!!!

[Guest]

Ron,<BR>Thanks for the info on the PB Rust Blaster.<BR>Didn't know about it, but I second your motion. It can be a frustrating exercise to break a frozen engine, so all the help a person can get is welcome.<BR>Roger

[Guest SalG (Sal Grenci)]

JERM, I agree with my friend Roger. I would also suggest Marvel Mistery Oil, the stuff that comes in the red and black can. Many people here on Long Island use if to "fog out" motors on boats when they are winterized. It gets up into the valuves, etc. SalG

[Bill Boudway]

You might also try a product called Kroil. I've had exceptional results with it. If you can't find it locally, send me an e-mail and I'll respond with the supplier's address.<BR>Good luck!!<BR>Bill B.<BR>e-mail: gnbboudway@msn.com

[Guest]

Be very careful. You need to determine why its stuck - is it the crank stuck to the block, a connecting rod, a broken part locking the cam train, or are the pistons stuck to the cylinder wall(s). First take the head and oil pan off. If there is nothing obvious you should remove the crankshaft. If everything looks good, then lube the cylinders and remove the pistons ever so carefully. I found one once with so much rust that it took a week of soaking before it would move.<P>Paul<BR>paul.perea@teqware.com

[Bill Stoneberg]

I also had a stuck engine awhile ago.<BR>Not, and I mean nothing, got it loose. I tried all the methods listed above and others. I finally took the engine down and found a piston welded to the wall by rust.IF i would have forced it I could have broken rods or the crank.<BR>Try the methods above, but dont force it. Take it apart first and see what is stuck.<BR>Bill

[Guest]

An old trick BEFORE starting to disassemble<P>Pour generously any kind os these speciality oils that where recomended to you ( they are basically all the same, go for the cheapest )<BR>through the sparkplugs holes, engage the handcrank in a horizontal position, put a cricket under the part of the handcrank that<BR>you take in your hand and slightly raise the<BR>car just to the point that the tyres are just in contact with the ground ; then wait for two or three days. If nothing is broken inside the car will very slowly go down and you will be able to hand krank and then either start or disassemble it ; if the car does not go down then the probability is that you have some serious damage inside.<P>It is much better to have a stuck engine due to congelated oil and dirt than an engine<BR>so worn by wear and tear that it will be turning very freely in any condition.