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wvernon ABS brake test results


Guest William Vernon

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Guest William Vernon

I bought my Reatta a couple weeks ago (my second one). Anyway, here goes.

Test 1: Start car, wait a few seconds after brake lights go out for pump to run and stop. Count the number of full pedal pumps it takes to turn on the yellow and red lights. How many pumps? **1 pump, red takes a little longer**

Test 2: Climate control and radio off. Wait for lights out, then a few seconds for pump to stop running, Key off. Count the number of full pedal pumps it takes till the pedal gets very hard. How many pumps? **1 pump**

Test 3: Turn key on (don't start engine) Count the seconds until the red light goes out and continue counting until the pump stops running. Note also when yellow light goes out or if it doesn't. Seconds till Red light goes off? **Instantly**

Yellow Light? **2 seconds**

Test 4: Total seconds till pump stops running? **2 seconds**

Test 5: Leave driver door open w/ hood raised. Turn key on, don't start engine. Listen and identify the brake system pump running. (under the hood, on the firewall, drivers side). Wait until the pump stops running. Depress the brake pedal one or more times until the pump starts to run. How many pumps? **1 pump**

Test 6: The system should be fully pressurized ( key on, lights out, pump no longer running) and you should have filled reservoir to the fill line while the system was Depressurized , as per Manual, prior to this test! Make a mark, grease pencil, masking tape, whatever, exactly at the Reservoir fluid level. Measure the distance between the fill line and this mark. Distance? **No distance whatsoever, I can pump all day long and there is no change in the level**

Test 7: Checking the Main Valve Operation. Turn the key to Run (not Start), wait until the lights go off and Pump stops running. Turn the key to off, place your foot on the Brake Pedal and while pressing gently, turn the key to Run. Immediately or within a few seconds you should feel a tap/pushback from the pedal and an audible thump. **There IS a thump**

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you smile.gif

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Time for a new accumulator. You can get one from GMPartsDirect.com for $112.00 plus shipping. Part #25528382. Install a new O-ring on it also. Part #25528383.

Check part numbers before purchasing. They could change.

Click here for instructions on how to change. It's simple as changing a light bulb.

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Guest William Vernon

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steakneggs</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have an '88 accumulator I'll sell for $10 plus shipping. PM me. Steak </div></div>

Only if it's new smile.gif Thanks anyway.

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Guest William Vernon

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: padgett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I thought new accumulators came with the O-ring fitted. Has something changed ? </div></div>

I assumed this also. Although it doesn't seem like there's anything special about the o-ring that an auto parts store couldn't match if need be.

I ordered from GM Parts Direct. Price is $112.50 plus $15.57 handling plus $9.18 freight total of $137.25. Old accumulator was definitely bad, pressure was gone. Part is supposed to come in today, which took 12 business days.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: padgett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I thought new accumulators came with the O-ring fitted. Has something changed ? </div></div>

You are probably correct. When I posted the part numbers and stated you should replace the o-ring, I was looking at my invoice from GMPartsDirect.com. For some reason I ordered the O-ring separately. Maybe no one had told me that the O-ring came with the accumulator.

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Guest William Vernon

Installed accumulator this morning, problem solved. It did come with the o-ring fitted btw. Thanks to all smile.gif

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