Missing Engine

[34PackardRoadsta]

Dear All,

Just to let you know, this is what a missing engine looks like in a 1930 7th series sedan:

[Guest imported_Speedster]

We realize there's an Empty place in your Life also, so

I'm Hopeing she will be Home again real Soon and in Good Health. LOL

[Tom M]

O boy Tom,

You took the plunge.

That is where I started off then from there it went down hill body off frame restoration and so on.

So will you be doing any other type of work on the car?

[34PackardRoadsta]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packin31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

So will you be doing any other type of work on the car?</div></div>

Oh, yeah! Basically, I doing a 'mechanical' restoration. So this week I will finish taking the shocks off, then the front end gets a complete going over. I need new springs and spring covers (any ideas?), the king pins probably need replacement, brakes, seals, After the front, then on to the rear for a similar treatment. The wiring harness will also be replaced, and the bijur system gone over. I'm sure there is more, but that is what I can think of now.

I really want to keep the paint and particularly the interior original.

So, how far have you progressed on your project?

Tom

[tbirdman]

Tom,

If you want to service the Bijur pump I would recommend Stephen Babinsky

AUTOMOTIVE RESTORATIONS, INC.

1050 Route 22 West

Lebanon, New Jersey 08833

908-236-6400

He does an excellent job and is able to replace the internal diaphram without sawing the unit in half. Mine came back looking factory fresh. He does Pebble Beach Cars and I can see why with the results I got.

[Tom M]

Tom,

Not to much progress. With warmer weather upon us finally I can get back to the body work. But I did however today put the tie rods and some other steering components back on.

[34PackardRoadsta]

Ken,

Thanks for the info on the Bijur repair.

Tom

[34PackardRoadsta]

To see some photos and a couple of blog entries about removing the engine, visit:

Photo albums:

http://www.packardpaddock.com/Packard_Paddock/Photo_Albums/Photo_Albums.html

The newest few albums are at the bottom of the page.

Blog:

http://www.packardpaddock.com/Packard_Paddock/The_Paddock_Tribune/The_Paddock_Tribune.html

Thanks for following along.

Cheers,

Tom

[West Peterson]

While it is this far apart, and since you're restoring it to drive, replace any and all replaceable steering bushings, pins, bearings, tie rod ends, etc.,... anything that pivots... You'll be glad you did.

[Guest 1926pack]

Tom-if you need Bijur connectors, try Blevins Screw. I don't have their number but you can Google it. They were able to find connectors for my 26.

[34PackardRoadsta]

West,

Great advice. Like maybe redo the shocks, eh .

26Pack,

Thanks for the tip. Will add it to the list.

T

[Owen_Dyneto]

I'd be a bit reluctant to "replace any and all replaceable steering bushings, pins, bearings, tie rod ends, etc.," unless they needed replacement. For one thing, many of the reproduced and some NORS parts, while serviceable, don't match the quality of the original parts, and (2), its wasteful to use hard-to-find NOS parts where they are not required. But I would certainly diassemble, clean, and inspect carefully to see what parts need replacement. Tie rod ends are generally adjustable for wear and if a car has been well-cared for, the parts that most often have wear are the leaf spring bushings and shackle pins. On the latter, tool steel is preferred to stainless steel.

[34PackardRoadsta]

Well, my leaf springs themselves are pretty beat up, so I imagine the bushings are shot as well. I agree that one shouldn't replace things that are in fine condition, and I did not take that from West's statement. I thought he meant replace anything that should be replaced.

Perhaps I just read into his statement?

[West Peterson]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Owen_Dyneto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'd be a bit reluctant to "replace any and all replaceable steering bushings, pins, bearings, tie rod ends, etc.," unless they needed replacement. </div></div>

Owen, I understand what you're saying, and you make a good point. My thinking is that if you're making a "driver," replace what you can, where you can, to make the driving experience more fun. If one finds that parts can be merely cleaned up and lubricated properly to make it "new", that may be enough. Steering a 1930 Packard is quite a chore. Anything that can be done to improve it makes for a happier driver.

If I could modify what I said...

Spend a lot of time inspecting the entire steering system. Be aware that some greasable areas could be packed with hardened grease. A slight "wiggle" at the linkage point could result in a pretty good shimmy at the steering wheel. I strongly believe that if more people would spend more time and money getting this part of the house in order, there would be much less demand for radial tires.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

I've noticed that the shocks on my '29s are not Worn-out like the shocks were on my '37s and the mileage is not that much different, in fact the mileage is probably more on the '29s.

I think the main reason is that the '29s have leaf-springs at all wheels and the '37s have coil-springs in front and since the leaf-springs are stiffer the shock-arm don't move up and down as much and as often, as coils allow them to. Another reason is the shock was also the upper A-arm in '37 and later models.

Coils make a smoother ride but are Hard on shocks.

Of course it could Also be that they made them to Last longer during the '20s.

So your shocks on the '30 may not need overhaul. They can be tested by moving the arm by hand, with the shock mounted in a bench-vise or still mounted on frame.

[Owen_Dyneto]

West, I too have been suprised at the differences in roadability, especially steering and brakes, between the 8th series and back, and the 33-34 cars. The older ones drive a bit like fire engines with soft tires, and my 34 is actually quite nimble and pleasant to drive, even the steering effort when parking. And the brakes (14 inch with Bragg-Kliesrath booster) are terrific, I wish the brakes on my 56 Packard were as good!). The advances in chassis engineering over those few years were really dramatic. Those last few years of the beam axle suspension senior cars, given good pavement, handle and ride so well it's hard to believe they aren't IFS.

My car has been on the road it's entire life, and atleast during the 40+ years I've had it, it's had meticulous lubrication and maintenance. As per the factory, the kingpins have been lubricated with heavy oil, not grease, ditto for the universals. The only parts I have replaced are a few of the spring shackle bolts and bushings, those at the rear of the springs seem to take more abuse than the fronts. Tie rod ends are adjustable for wear, but have never needed it.