boght a lot of parts, trying to determine what to keep, here is

March 14, 2008

I ended up buying that several pallet 50 Buick parts pile that was on ebay for $250. I did not have to pay shipping because the seller delivered it to me.

I have decided that I got my money’s worth if you even only count the grill and bumpers. I also think that having the shocks to send to Apple Hydraulics as a core is good to have.

Here is the list. I am trying to decide what other things to just get rid of either because it is just junk (throw it away or sell it for the lowest price I can to get someone to take it away – $1).

I have ranked this list according to how good it is. Can people tell me if there are items on this list that are hard to find (I should keep it if I ever think that I want it) and which things on the list are junk because they are easily replaceable at a reasonable price?:

1) Front and rear bumpers – very little rust (might scrape off with steel wool), still pretty shiny, a few surface scratches from mishandling – looks much better than the bumpers on my car (but I have an NOS rear bumper already).

2) Complete front grill assembly (all bolted together). – teeth look about the same as on my car – no rot, some scratches, pretty shiny. Bumper gards have rot in bottom, top part very nice and shiny. Could I use them as a core for Buick Boys?

Includes front parking light lenses and metal trim piece.

3) 4 rear shocks, 4 front shocks – can I use these for cores to send to Apple hydraulics so I don’t have to remove mine until I am ready? Is this a good option – the ones on my car look better? – do all of the rebuilt ones (that you can trade yours for) come out looking great – so that it there is no reason not to just exchange?

4) Steering box – looks pretty good – use for core?

5) Harrison Radiator – core looks good, top neck was dented (poor handling). – at least keep for core – don’t know if the neck can be reconditioned.

6) Mustache grill (Buick 8) – pitting, not damaged – could be rechromed.

7) windshield wiper jar (not broken) – complete but corrosion – could clean up pretty well though.

8) exhaust manifold – do these crack easily (good to have spare) – no heat riser box – no apparent cracks, but after sand blast and resurface might be fine.

9) intake – assembly – manifold, carter carburetor, throttle dashpot and linkages, fuel strainer bowl etc.

10) intake manifold

11) Set of front fenders - surface rust, heavy in some places but no rot. A few dents in places that can be fixed (not visible surface). Some paint visible in lots of places as well (only very light corrosion on outside here). Undercoating still on inside. Which 1950 models had the same fenders (obviously Roadmaster has longer ones). Are other models the same?

12) all steering related linkages

13) Water pump – use for core. Are new ones available?

14) Under seat heater core – few fins bent but does not look rotted

15) A bunch of stainless trim – probably ok after cleaning

16) 4 drum assy with upper control arm and brake parts

17) Battery box hold down/shield – some corrosion but not heavy rust. – keep this because some cars have it missing?

18) 1 set hood hinges with connecting rods. – keep this because parts might be missing or rods bent (in future car that I don’t have yet)

19) Starter – not too bad looking but surface rust. – includes solenoid

20) Generator – rusty – looks like it could be completely restored.

21) Air intake assy – some dents and rust in tubular part, rest is fine – mine is better.

22) Radio – very rusty, chrome part that shows might be ok (clean it to find out).

23) Oil filter canister – complete, some orange paint still visible on cover.

24) Brass Y fitting for split in vacuum hose for wipers and cleaner. – can you just get a brass one brand new (I know that plastic ones are available).

25) anti-sway bar – are new after market ones available?

26) Pulley – surface rust

27) Fan with spacer - rusty

28) Steering column – still painted but some little surface corrosion pits in the paint.

29) Ring gear – heavy surface corrosion but teeth are not chewed up.

Rebecca

_________________________

1950 Super Riviera

1958 Desoto Firesweep

50jetback · March 15, 2008

Rebecca,

Keep it all, then I know who to contact if I need any of the parts!!!!

If you have the room most of what you have is worth hanging onto. Your idea of sending shocks of to have rebuilt is the way to go and means you can complete the repacement of all shocks in one go instead of having the car laying around in bits for days/weeks ( or in our case sometimes months ) waiting for the reconditioner to get them back to you.

Good bumpers are in demand and undamaged top grill bars are very hard to find so I think you would get your money back on these items alone, if you chose to sell.

Gary_N · March 15, 2008

Rebecca, talk to "Old-Tank" before sending the shocks out. He has a thread here on how to fix em up. At $250 each for re-building, it's worth a look.

I'd may be interested in the Carb. You can email me at: gnoub51@gmail.com.

Thanks!

Gary

March 18, 2008

Gary, I sent you an email.

By the way, I like your motto. Unfortunatley I am starting to have the same one.

Rebecca

March 18, 2008

Rebecca, talk to "Old-Tank" before sending the shocks out. He has a thread here on how to fix em up. At $250 each for re-building, it's worth a look.
Apple Hydraulics (according to their web site) charges $175 each for front ones and $145 each for rear ones (they have a core charge if you don't send them shocks).
I was thinking of sending them shocks from my recent cache and they say that they will send you some right away if you don't care if you get yours back. In this case I don't care because they are not the ones from the car.
Rebecca

Rod_Murphy · April 28, 2008

Hi, do you still have the mustache bar? if so, what do you want for it? Thanks,

Rod

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