34PackardRoadsta Posted March 4, 2008 Author Share Posted March 4, 2008 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Hope you take out those 6 filister head screws and educate yourself about the inner workings</div></div>Yes! Go TBrid, Go TBrid, Go TBrid...Give me a D...Give me an A...Give me an M... Give me a P, Give me...Give me more coffee? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 <span style="color: #CC0000"> <span style="font-family: 'Arial Black'"> <span style="font-size: 17pt"> Take it Off....... Take it Off....... Take it Offffff!</span> </span> </span> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 It has already been shipped. I think I let that "idiot" Tom take his 31 apart Tom...that "idiot" reply was definitely not meant for you but for the owner of the car. At first it appears that way, but the author should had quoted the exact post in his reply to remove all doubts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 Ken,It was early when I read that so I thought it was pointed at me. I may just miss read it. My dampener is all nicely painted so I am hesitating to take mine apart now.Do you all think I need to take mine apart?Where is my dunce cap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 Hey, we all just want to see pictures of the Inside of one. I sure wouldn't take it apart, unless it is falling apart already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packin31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ken,My dampener is all nicely painted so I am hesitating to take mine apart now.Do you all think I need to take mine apart?</div></div>Mine was also nicely painted. However I was convinced by others that I might as well have it refurbished now rather than face problems done the road when it be much more difficult to redo. I have a lot of mechanical receipts for the car, but nothing indicating this had been refurbished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 Packin, it's only those 6 screws to take it apart to check condition. Better safe than sorry. Remember Murphy's Law? Cost nothing to check it now but a lot of time and effort to replace it later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 32,My Murhpys is that something always breaks when I pull things apart Ok one more thing to put on my to do list then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 Thta's why my went out today untouched by my clumsy hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 Nothing in it to break. Take out the 6 screws and pry the thing apart. There are small springs inside but they are not under much pressure. With a hammer knock out the center from the backside. Surrounding the center and vulcanized to it is a nubbed rubber disc maybe 6" across. If this disc is torn from the center it needs to be revulcanized. Reassembly is obvious. Be sure that there are reference marks stamped into both the 2 heavy discs as well as the center so the timing marks are where they need to be when you reassemble it. You will likely need a torque driver to remove the screws. I'll try to post a pic if I can remember how. Inside there is also a device consisting of two friction discs with a ring of clutch lining-like material sandwiched in between. It is this ring that finds it's own balance point against the pressure of the springs and the "twist " of the rubber disc thereby "dampening" engine vibration. Sounds more complicated than it actually is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted March 7, 2008 Share Posted March 7, 2008 Sent the dampener out Monday and Damper Dudes called today as it is finished. Total cost including shipping back is $215. The guy I spoke with said mine did need rebuilding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted March 7, 2008 Share Posted March 7, 2008 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The guy I spoke with said mine did need rebuilding. </div></div> Just make sure they actually rebuilt it, not just sent it back. But it may be difficult to really tell what they did to it? Sorry, but I'm just Not trusting when it comes things like that, that I have no control over. If you know what I mean? (that happened several times when I was Young and Trusting) I'm the same way with engine work, If I can't watch them do it, I take it somewhere else, where I can watch. Even the most Honest and Experienced people can Screw-up some time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted March 7, 2008 Share Posted March 7, 2008 I know what you mean however this company was highly recommended by the local Packard guys. Of course that doesn't always help as I have experienced before, but at least you have some confindence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 OK now that I have it back, what's the easist way to install it on the crankshaft? I hit a few times with a 20 lb hammer but it wouldn't go on...only kidding about the 20 lb hammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34PackardRoadsta Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 It has been awhile since we talked dampers! I am finally getting around to posting photos of my damper taken apart. I am assuming that the inner, keyed part, on the rear half, is supposed to turn independently of the larger outer part, correct? Because it certainly doesn't on this damper. Also, the damper halves are not bolted together, but are held together by the front mounted pulley that through bolts to the rear half of the damper.Cheers,Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbirdman Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 Tom,I think from the discussions that perhaps there was a change in dampners where the design changes from using a friction material and the two halfs would slide against each other, to the spring and rubber core one you have. According the the "Dampner Dudes" who rebuilt mine, it was like yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 Yes, we concluded that Mid '30 is when one major design change happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34PackardRoadsta Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 Yes, I remember that. I thought perhaps a photo would be nice for any future person perusing the discussion. Also, are you telling me that the damper will not rotate independent of the crankshaft? I thought the previous conclusion was that it would (see Rick's posts above).Thanks,Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 The center section with the keyway is vulcanized to the disc surrounding it. No, the dampner will not rotate independently of the crankshaft. Often times the original vulcanizing fails. This is what rebuilders do, revulcanize the center to its disc and replace springs etc. If done properly the timing marks are still in the same place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Speedster Posted May 13, 2008 Share Posted May 13, 2008 Correct, it's only the earlier type (before '30) that will rotate.The type shown in the '30 manual, is the rotating type. They must have printed the manuals before the vulcanized type were introduced. It's unclear how many '30 model engines were built using the earlier type dampener, probably not many. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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