RFI on Carter AFB electric choke

[KongaMan]

I'm looking for a little info on doing an electric choke conversion for a Carter AFB on a '64 Riv. I've got 2 particular questions:

- Any recommendations (or disrecommendations) on a source for parts (since some of these work better than others)?

- Anyone tried using a replacement 3-prong oil pressure sending unit to trigger the choke?

Thanks.

[RivNut]

Dear ?????

I've found that the Carter parts work best. I've had good luck getting the parts I need from Allstate Carburetor and Fuel Injection in Central Islip, NY. When you get in contact with them, you might as well get a new stainless heat shield from them; it good insurance for the aluminum based carb you have. The old shield will eventually give way to the corrosive exhaust gasses

http://www.allcarbs.com/

I've hooked the electric choke up to my '64 Riv. Here is a write-up with parts list that I did on it.

<span style="font-weight: bold">ELECTRIC CHOKE WIRING FOR EARLY RIVIERAS WITH THE NAILHEAD</span>

You only want your electric choke to be working when the engine is running; not during cranking or at any other time when current may be going to the choke but the engine has not yet started – it may have stalled or you may be sitting with the switch on and forgot about it.

Here’s a simple way to accomplish that - In the 1980’s the Buick V-6 ran the electric fuel pump wire through the oil pressure switch – if the engine died, the fuel pump would stop even though the ignition was still on. It’s a three pronged switch. The silver lead goes to your light/gauge and the two gold color ones are used for the choke. Power goes into one gold prong and a wire from the choke housing goes to the other gold prong. When the engine is running and has pressure, the oil pressure closes the switch and you have power to your choke. If the engine dies and loses pressure, the current to the choke is cut off.

Here’s what you need:

• An electric choke conversion kit – available online or at your local parts store.

• Oil Pressure switch GM part # 25036378 – should have two gold and one silver terminals.

• Brass ¼ FPT to 18 MPT adapter from your local hardware store

• 16 – 18 gauge wire: red for the hot wire, black for the ground

• Wire connectors – male and female that will make good contact with the sender.

• Inline wire tap.

Straight forward process:

• Remove all the dirt and grease from around the oil pressure sending unit.

• Remove your old oil pressure sending unit – very large deep socket required here.

• Attach the new switch to the adapter and install in place of the old switch

• Run the hot wire (red) to a gold prong. - A good 12V source is the yellow wire that runs from the fuse box to the transmission kick down switch, or add an inline fuse. Tap the wire in an inconspicuous place. Run the rest of the hot wire (red) from the other gold prong to one of the terminals on the choke housing

• Run the ground wire (black) from the other terminal on the choke housing to a good ground (only necessary on an AFB carburetor; Q-jets, and 4GC’s can act as their own ground.)

• Reconnect the wire from the oil pressure gauge/switch to the silver prong on the new sending unit. Be sure to check that your gauge is working properly.

Wah Lah! 12 volts of power only when you need it and only when you want it; nicely concealed and under the air cleaner.

A trick I like to use is to run the power wire through a piece of tubing, with the white asbestos type cloth “sock” around it, that looks like the original air tube.

Ed