Status of '29 645 Sport Coupe Restoration Project

[Guest imported_Speedster]

And I suppose you would say that 'A Ford looks Identical to a Chevrolet', Huh ? LOL

Compaired to a Battleship, I guess they Do.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

To be fair I'll have to say, since the Inlays are Hand made and no 2 are exactly the same, it really doesn't matter if there is a minor difference or not.

Some do look a little better than others, tho.

I wish I could have been able to make mine look like they had a burled background, but even tho I tried, my small paint-brushes just wouldn't do Burled, to my satisfaction.

[West Peterson]

Since they are identical (IMO), I believe they had some sort of template that carved the outlines that you see on the limo photo. Then, they were individually colored with paints.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Yes, they appear to not only be inlayed wood, of various types, but also some areas were painted and Inked.

Some have many more colors and shades than others, but saying that one color combination is more original than others may Not be correct?

[tbirdman]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"lovely"???... "tarted"?? Not my language. Must have been a Brit. But, I do tend to agree with the Brits when it comes to black sidewall tires and painted wheels, and that they don't tend to over restore cars. I believe the Brits value an unrestored car more than a restored car, just as I do. At the very least, they value a car that gets used the way it's supposed to be used.

</div></div>

Well West I have to admit, I might have gone for black walls if I had to buy tires over again.

I was surprised about the guy stating his dislike for the chrome wheels as I thought that was the standard wheel finish for Duesys. However I could be wrong as that was only an assumption of mine. I just thought of you when he said tarted because it was the first time I had ever heard someone on TV criticize chrome wheels.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

I've now got the scratches and dents out of 4 Hubcaps to make them usable for the 645, but I can't deside on which procedure to use for painting the black area around the raised lettering. In the past I've done it by carefully painting around each letter to not get any paint on them and at other times I've painted the complete area and then scraped off the paint on the letters.

The first method takes much longer to do but seems to have a little better results, so unless someone has a suggestion of a better way to do it, I'll go with that method on these as well???

[tbirdman]

I took the easy way out. I brought my hupcaps to a guy who does vehicle lettering for a living. He used the paint around letters process you described.

[Tom M]

What about using this liquid mask stuff?

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/div/div3020.htm

[Guest imported_Speedster]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Packin31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What about using this liquid mask stuff?

</div></div>

I've used liquid-mask before and if the letters were recessed instead of raised, it would probably work well, but since they are raised I think the mask would tend to run off the letters, since they are so small and thin. It would probably take more time and effort to put on the mask than it would to just paint around the letters.

Tom, have you tried it or know of someone that has done it that way?

[Tom M]

Was just and Idea I was throwing out. But I think my friend has used it on the pedal cars he restores. I can ask him how it worked out for him.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

I got the Hubcaps painted, but it ended up being a combination of painting round the letters AND Scraping them, where I got Sloppy with the brush. LOL

[Guest imported_Speedster]

BTW- The paint flows better with about 25% thinner added,

a very small artist brush is needed and a magnifying type visor really helps, to paint the Hubcaps.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: West Peterson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The set that I bought recently do not have those. Next time I'm in the Museum, I'll take a look. </div></div>

I'm still curious about the Source of the Shock-absorber Oiler-cups, that were on the 645? (All 4 shocks had one of these mounted on it when I got the car but I don't know if they are original from Packard or Dietrich, or aftermarket?)

West, did you have a chance to look at the cars at Museum?

Anyone else know anything about them? (they are 2" diameter)

See Pic:

[West Peterson]

Sorry, Rick

I was over there a couple of weeks ago, and in my mind I was trying to remember why I needed to look at them, but I forgot. I'll print out your photo to remind me next time.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Okay, Thanks

There must be some more of those Somewhere ???

[Guest imported_Speedster]

When I assembled the modification to the 645s fuel delivery system, by adding an electric pump between main tank and the firewall mounted gravity-feed tank and a return line to main tank, I also added a pressure regulator at outlet of the pump. I've discovered that the regulator is Not needed, since the pump is a low pressure type (about 5.psi) and it's pumping uphill about 3 feet to the gravity-feed tank. So the flow is not too excessive at gf-tank's inlet and the return line can handle it with no problem.

Thought I would mention it, if someone intends to do a similar mod.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

I just noticed this picture of the pump and regulator mounted inside the right-side frame-rail. This pic was taken before body was put back on frame.

Now that the regulator is removed it's a much Cleaner lookin' installation.

BTW- I did not have any problems uploading this pic. Let's hope it stays that way! LOL

[West Peterson]

Here is a picture of my fuel regulator. Somewhere in the line is a leak, so I'm going to have to do some checking into it.

[West Peterson]

Oooops!

[Guest imported_Speedster]

LOL I LOVE IT!

[West Peterson]

I'm getting ready to install an electric fuel pump as well, but I believe I will be using the Seagraves method.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

I know I've heard of the Seagraves method, but can't remember what it IS ???

Is that where the electric-pump is in parallel with the stock system and is activated only when needed, instead of being the only delivery system ? And doesn't it have to have a one-way check-valve in it somewhere?

[West Peterson]

Yup. You remember it.

[tbirdman]

Looks more like the radiator overflow

[Guest imported_Speedster]

With all those girls watching, it would more likely be a case of 'No Flow'.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

The brakes are Still draging a little on the 645, but other than Sand down the shoes some, I don't know how to fix them. There's just no more adjustment and it seems that it will take a long time for them to ware down enough, which I was hopeing they would. The shoes have new linings and the ones they installed are evidently just too thick. I can turn the wheels by hand but I can feel the drag when doing that and you can really tell they are when driving it. So it shouldn't take much sanding.

So looks like I'll be pulling the wheels and drums again and getting out the ol' belt-sander again. Hopefully I can sand them enough without pulling the shoes.

Man it's always something.

[Guest imported_PackardV8]

Paint, blue or chalk the linings on ONE wheel. Replace the drum and test. remove the drum after test ans that will tell u where to grind.

MOST likely it will be the UPPER AND LOWER edges of the linings. The upper and lower edges should be champfered anyway if they are not already.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Yes, I've pulled one drum already and it's draging at the inner edge at front-top and rear-lower, but not at the ends of the linings. (these are 3 shoes per wheel type brake assemblies) Being the Inner edge will make it a little more difficult to do with a belt sander without also sanding off the paint on inside of backing-plate but I can always touch-up the paint again.

After sanding some, and if it's still draging, I will try the chalk, to recheck it. Great Idea, Thanks

[Guest imported_PackardV8]

Before grinding check the consitency of the thickness of the lining. Are they WOVEN linings????

Try swapping the shoes around so that the inner side of the shoe is outside. Check the drum for a ridge where maybe they were not turned all the way in. Bent backing plate or bellmouthed drum or bent shoe???? Dragging on all 4 wheels???

[Guest imported_PackardV8]

If they are mechanical brakes then check the cam that spreads the shoes. Quite often the cam will wear unevenly. Also, on some mechanical brakes the cam has to be positioned correctly. If 180 degrees out of correct position will cause one shoe to drag and the other(s) late in making contact.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

All 4 are draging slightly. The drums and cams are in great condition. The linings are not the woven type and the shoes can not be reversed on these 3-shoe brakes, they can be put on only one way.

I'm sure it's just that the linings are too thick. The guy that installed them on the shoes told me that they might be, but it was the only ones he had in the correct size. I was just hopeing that I could get by with Not sanding.

These 3 shoe brake assemblies also have an adjusting cam, that is locked in place with a nut, after you adjust the assembly to be centered in the drum. Those have been readjusted several times, which helped, but not enough.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Here's a picture of a 3-shoe assembly, for those that have not seen them (picture taken before new linings were installed) Sorry I don't have a picture of them installed on car. The elongated hole, at bottom of picture is for the adjusting cam. Large fixed pins, mounted thru backing-plate, go thru the 2 large holes at top of picture, hold the assembly in place and act as pivot points for the shoes. (The L-F is for left-front)

[34PackardRoadsta]

Here is a picture of the passenger side front brakes as installed on my 733.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Yep, looks identical to '29s. Thanks

The difference in the fronts and rears is that the activation cam is at the top of the front brakes but it's at the front side on the rear brakes. (rotated 90.deg)

I hope that's Not your Blood on that bearing!

[34PackardRoadsta]

LOL! Nope, it's my flesh .

[Guest imported_Speedster]

I got the rear brake shoes spot sanded enough to not drag, I think.

Man I hate removing and installing '29 wood-wheels and drums. Too much Work for me.

I now need to rest up a few days before doing the fronts, they should be a little easier tho.

I made a tool to make installing the wheels easier. I found a long 1/2" bolt that fits the threads of the lug-bolt holes, cut the head off of the bolt and cut a slot in the end where head was, with hacksaw. I can now use that bolt as a guide pin to hold the wheel in place while lining up 7 of the lug-bolts. The slot in end is for a large screwdiver, to install and remove the guide-bolt. Works Great.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

Here's a picture of the wheel Guide-pin bolt.

(As you can tell it was a Well used bolt, that was removed from something)

I also ground some flats on shank, so it could be wrenched out if necessary.

[tbirdman]

Can you make me one

I use the old resat the tire on knee, shoe tops method right now.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tbirdman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Can you make me one

I use the old resat the tire on knee, shoe tops method right now. </div></div>

Hey, you have a Hacksaw, Don't You!

Yes, that method can be tough on the ol' 5 Little-Piggys.

[Tom M]

Hey great idea Rick. I do have some old wheel studs I could grind down the head. O wait I think some of them are threaded on both end. Then all I would need to do is put a slot in one end. Will need to pull my stash down and take a look.